
















COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 






















A School Garden Exhibit. 


















HOW TO 

MAKE HOME AND CITY 

BEAUTIFUL 


PREPARED TO HELP THOSE INTERESTED 
IN MAKING ATTRACTIVE HOMES 

AND BEAUTIFUL CITIES 


BY 

H. D. HEMENWAY 



NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



Copyright 1911. 

By H. D. Hemenway. 





©CI.A289134 


PREFACE. 


This little book is written with a view of furnishing 
inspiration and help to those who want to make their 
homes attractive and the city a cleaner, healthier, better 
and prettier place in which to live. The author endeavors 
to keep the book in clear, simple, and concise language. 
The first ten chapters are from plates of “Hints and Helps 
For Young Gardeners.” These chapters refer largely to 
elementary agriculture and work in the vegetable garden. 
The remaining chapters treat more directly upon beautify¬ 
ing the home grounds and the care of the surroundings of 
the home. Credit is here given for the use of cuts by the 
Syracuse Chilled Plow Co., and by the Massachusetts 
State Board of Agriculture. 

H. D. Hemenway, 
Northampton , [Massachusetts , igii. 

















CONTENTS 


CHAPTER I. 

Introduction. 

CHAPTER II. 

How to Plan thk Garden. 

Selection of Garden Plot—Enriching it—Selecting the Crops to Grow 
—Selecting the Tools. 


CHAPTER III. 

Soil, Tieeage. 

Objects of Tillage—Implements used in Tillage—the Spade—the 
Plow—the Harrow—Cultivators—Roller—Planker—How to Spade— 
How to Rake—How to Hoe. 

CHAPTER IV. 

How to Test Seeds. 

Seed Testing Blank—Germination—How to Make a Germiuator. 

CHAPTER V. 

How TO PgANT. 

Preparing the Land—Directions for Planting Beans—Bush—Lima and 
Pole— Beets—Brussels Sprouts—Broccoli—Cabbage—Carrots—Cauli¬ 
flower—Celery—Sweet Corn—Corn Salad—Cress — Cucumber — Dan¬ 
delion—Egg Plant—Endive — Kale—Kohl Rabi—Lettuce — Leek— 
Mustard—Melons—Okra—Onions—Parsley—Mixing Soil and Potting 
—Parsnip—Peppers—Peas—Potatoes—Pumpkins—Radish—Salsify— 
Spinach —Squash—Tomatoes—Turnip—Vegetable—Planting Table— 
Flower Planting Table. 

CHAPTER VI. 

’ How to Dig and Set Trees. 

How to dig the Tree—How to set it—Planting Board. 

CHAPTER VII. 

How to Make a Hotbed and Care for the Same. 

How to Make the Bed—How to Care for it—Cotton Shutters. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Strawberry Cueture. 

Preparing the Laud—Setting in Garden, in field—Winter Covering— 
The Barrel Method. 


CHAPTER IX. 

Asparagus Cueture. 

Planting the Seed—Preparing the Ground—Setting the Roots for 
Garden Culture, for Field Culture—Cutting. 

CHAPTER X. 

Window Gardening. 

The best Plants for it—Mixing the Soil for Common Plants, for 
Palms and Roses, for Cacti—Selecting and arranging the Plants in 
Boxes—List of Suitable Plants—Pottin« and Re-potting—Propagation 
—Bulbs—Care of Plants. 


CHAPTER XI. 

How to Beautify the Home Grounds. 

Simple Landscape Rules—Grading—Fertilizing—How to make 
the Layout or Plan—Harmony—Condition. 

CHAPTER XII. 

What to Plant. 

Tall Plants for Shade and Sun-Medium Plants for Shade and 
Sun—Low Plants for Shade and Sun—Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Care of Trees and Shrubs. 

Propagation—Cuttings— Layering-Grafting—Grafting Cloth—Root 
Grafting—Whip-Tongue and Saddle Grafting—Cleft Grafting— 
Pruning Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Grape Vines, Blackberries—Care. 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Plant Enemies and their Remedies. 

Plant Diseases—Insect Pests—Spraying—For Sucking Insects— 
For Chewing Insects—Scale Insects—for Plant Diseases—Potato 
Scab. 


CHAPTER XV. 

A Flower Garden Competition. 

How Started—How Conducted—Rules—Enrollment—Inspection 
—Prize Award. 


CHAPTER XVI. 

How to Form a City Beautiful League. 

Need—Purpose—Public Meeting—Co-operation of Organizations 
—Constitution and By-Laws—Value of League. 


CHAPTER I . 

INTRODUCTION. 


IN America, garden work and elementary agriculture as a 
means of education has been successfully demonstrated 
for nearly a score of years. Many of its enthusiastic advo¬ 
cates believe it has already past its experimental stage, 
and should be included in the curriculum of every well- 
organized school. 

On the other hand, there are conservative educators, 
who still look upon it as a fad. Many others, probably 
the larger number, believe in it, but for the lack of effi¬ 
cient teachers, and equipment, hesitate to advocate intro¬ 
ducing the School Garden. 

Several institutions in the country have already begun 
to train teachers and the School Garden movement is 
making rapid progress. The time is not far distant, when 
practical, elementary agriculture, and gardening will be 
taught in many schools. It develops the children physi¬ 
cally as well as mentally and in the open air often creating 
a love for things, which keep the city boy off the street 
corners during the summer, and teaches the country child 
the business-like, up-to-date methods in agriculture and 
gardening. 

It not only educates tne nead, the heart, and the hand, 
but it aids in the practical application of reading, writing 
and arithmetic. Gardening increases and develops the 
power of observation. It makes a person quick to grasp 
ideas and to put these ideas into action. These are im¬ 
portant foundations for success in any line of business. 
It develops moral character. 

Few things, if any, develop a love of industry better 
than the well-kept garden. Ever changing nature lures 
us on to help some pet plant to grow until we love the 
work. 



An unsightly yard. 



The same yard three months later. 

What was once unsightly, unsanitary and unproductive, becomes a resort 
of beauty, of health and of utility for a whole family. 

Photos by Edward Mahoney. 

































FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


9 


Establishing a School Garden may change the entire 
healthfulness of a neighborhood. The school grounds, 
themselves may be better planned and more healthful, but 
the best effect may be at the homes. The School Gardener 
soon wants a garden at home. No matter how small the 
3 r ard, there is room for a garden for the boy or girl, even if 
it has to he established in a soap-box. There is much waste 
room often used for ashes, tin cans, or rubbish in many 
3 r ards. What was once unsightly, unsanitary, and unpro¬ 
ductive, becomes a resort of beauty, of health and utilitv r 
for a whole family. It opens up a source of revenue, 
creates a love of industry, and respect for property, and is 
often the beginning of better things. The gardener be¬ 
comes a better American citizen. 



Learning habits of close observation. 





CHAPTER II. 

HOW TO PLAN THE GARDEN. 


T HE first thing in planning a garden is to decide upon 
the location. If there is sufficient land so a choice 
•can be made always select the best land with the most 
sunny exposure. If it has a southern slope it will be still 
earlier and warmer. 

Enrich it with rotted stable manure at the rate of ten 
•cords or more to the acre. In the absence of stable 
manure* use a liberal sprinkling of wood ashes, and bone 
•dust and apply a little nitrate of soda to the crops occa¬ 
sionally, especially to the leaf crops. If there is a board 
fence place the tall growing crops next to it, otherwise 
place them on the north side. 

Do not try , at first, to grow rare or uncommon things. 
Cover the fences with flowering vines, as nasturtiums, 
morning glories, cobaeas, Japanese hop, etc. Any un¬ 
sightly places may be covered with the above named vines 
or with wild cucumber, gourds, squash or pumpkins. 
Low flowers show best when planted along the path. 
Taller ones may be planted back of them. Give every¬ 
thing plenty of room. 

Rows of corn or potatoes should not be closer than two 
and one-half feet in the garden, or three or three and one- 
lialf feet in the field. Tomatoes should be three to four 
ieet apart, and hills of squashes and cucumbers should 
never be closer than five feet apart, although other early 
■crops may be planted within four feet of them. 

A crop of lettuce, radishes, spinach or onions, may be 
obtained from the spaces between the crops that are planted 
more than two feet apart. Different kinds of corn should 
not be planted in the same garden. Different varieties of 

*The street department will generally furnish plenty of street sweepings 
for the School Garden. 


IO 



FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


11 




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CVbw 

vFL / A 0\ cliL. - cL 

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IfsdJlt/vO- 1 . 'vrfXtf-CUYlAJ 



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c f «'Ma, /XXo Vi -0 . . v 

r i ^ .v r w + | 1 * 

//it n a AS . , 




Garden 10x30 ft. 

A good plan for the whole season. 
From report of Director of Hart¬ 
ford School of Horticulture. 






s£J. 


’SiaZ+L 


Garden 4x5 ft. 

Plan for small 
garden that will 
ripen all its pro¬ 
ducts before the 
first of July. 


the same kind may, however. It is 
well to plant an early and a later variety 
of sweet corn. Plan for a good vari¬ 
ety of vegetables but do not try to 
grow things from which you are not 
reasonably sure of get¬ 
ting a crop. 

Begin early to plan 
the garden. Draw the 
plans on paper and 
study them. Make the 
changes, if there are 
any, then, when the 
time comes, you have 
a definite plan to 
work upon and no 
time is lost. In mak¬ 
ing the plans for a 
School Gardenavoid 
using the front lawn, 
at least the center of 
it, and avoid en¬ 
croaching upon a 
needed play-ground. 

Do not forget the 
aesthetic side but 
have something be¬ 
sides that. Let the 
garden teach, as well 
as industry and gar- 
dening^conomy and 
productiveness- 

In selecting tools, 


it is important to buy good ones . Avoid 
toys, and those that are cheap and worth¬ 
less. The best workman cannot do good 
work with inferior tools, much less can 
the inexperienced. While good tools 



The Needed Tools. 

a. Rake. c. Hand Weeder. 

b. I.ine. d. Sunnyside Hoe. 

Cut loaned bj r 

Doubleday, Page & Co., N Y. 






































12 


HINTS AND HELPS 


cost more at first, they are cheaper in the end. With 
good tools, the beginner should begin to handle them 
correctly. 



One of the modern harrows. 


























































































































Plan of the Gardens, Observation Plots, 

and Grounds at the School of Horticulture, 

Hartford, Conn. 














































































































































































































































































































































































































































CHAPTER III. 

SOIL TILLAGE. 


T ILLAGE is the working or stirring of the land in 
order to improve it for agricultural purposes. The 
term cultivation is sometimes used but tillage is a techni¬ 
cal term and is to be preferred. The fundamental practice 
in farming is tilling the land. 

The modern ideas of tillage dates from 1733, when 
Jethro Tull published a book on Horse-Hoeing Husbandry. 
While his theory was not correct as to the manner that 
plants take food, he was the first in England to advocate 
tilling the soil. His idea was that particles were made so 
fine that the small roots could take them in as food. It 
was only in the latter part of the century just closed that 
the real reasons for tillage became popularly understood 
in this country. 

THE OBJECTS OF TILLAGE. 

Tillage improves the land in many ways. It pul¬ 
verizes the soil, allowing air to enter and make available 
the plant food. It gives the roots a wider pasture. It 
saves moisture. It is practiced to prevent the growth of 
weeds and other vegetation not desired upon the ground. 
To place beneath the surface, manure, stubble and other 
organic matter where it will not be in the way, and where 
it may be converted rapidly into humus. Tillage will 
develop various degrees of openness of texture and uni¬ 
formity of soil and conditions suitable to the planting of 
seeds and the setting of plants. 

The first requirements in the growing of plants is pro¬ 
per and thorough tillage. It is more important than the ap¬ 
plication of fertilizers. By thorough and careful tillage 
good crops can be raised on semi-arid regions of the west 
which have a rainfall of only a little more than one-third 
our average rainfall. 

13 


f 


HINTS AND HKD PS 


H 


IMPLEMENTS USED IN SOIL TILLAGE. 

The spade and the plow are the first implements to be 
used in tillage. 

The Spade, is made for entering the soil, prying it 
off and turning it over. Its size and shape have been fixed 
by experiment. Many sizes are made according to the 
work for which they are to be used. It is heavier and 
stronger, then the shovel, which is made for shoveling 
soft earth. Where the soil is not too hard, the spading 
fork will spade the soil easier and quicker. 

The Plow, less than ninety years ago the wooden 
plow was the only one in use. In 1823, an inventor in 
Hartford, Connecticut, made the first cast plow bottom 
ever made. Nearly all plows before this were crooked 
sticks with a little metal protection. 

Joel Nourse, in 1825, with an ox team took three hun¬ 
dred cast iron plows from Hartford to Worcester, Mass. 
He became the head of the Ames Plow Co., of Worcester,, 
Massachusetts. 

Frost Horton, a New York statesman, about the same 
time began developing plows. These two men kept ex¬ 
perimenting until they had each perfected nearly five hun¬ 
dred different kinds of plows. 

The object of plowing is to alter the texture, forming 
from a comparatively hard soil a mellow layer of earth,, 
and to bury beneath the surface, weeds and other vegeta¬ 
tion and manure that it may rapidly decay. 

Plows vary in shape according to the purpose for 
which they are to be used. The Subsoil Plow is one 
made to follow in the furrow of the other plow. It has a 
long point which goes twelve or fifteen inches into the 
ground breaking up the subsoil It does not turn up the. 
lower soil but breaks it up. 

The Harrow, is the implement to follow the plow,, 
i. e. to be used after the plowing is done. All kinds ex¬ 
cept the old spike-tooth, are of recent origin. They pul¬ 
verize the soil and should always be used after plowing. 
The kind of harrow to be used depends upon the work to- 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


15 

be done. On sod or heavy land a disc, wheel or spading 
harrow should be used to be followed with a smoothing 
harrow. The harrow is the best thing to kill small weeds. 
Some kinds can be used after the crops are planted and 
until they are three or four inches high. It should gener¬ 
ally follow the roller to break the capillary attraction and 
save moisture. 

Hand and Horse Cuetivators, act as harrows. 
After the crops are three or four inches high, the cultiva¬ 
tors should be used. These are made in many styles to 
cultivate the crops between the rows. As with plows, we 
have both walking and sulky cultivators. The latter 
kind are best in the west and on large farms. The teeth 
should not be too large, and the cultivator, for the best 
results should not go deeper than three inches in summer. 
This keeps a soil mulch over the surface at all times, sav¬ 
ing the moisture, and allows the crop to send the roots 
through the middle of the rows without the danger of being 
broken off as would be the case with deeper tillage. 
Cultivation at first may be deep, but later should be shallow. 

The Planner, is used where a smooth surface is 
wanted. It breaks up the lumps and leaves the surface 
smooth without firming it much. 

The Roller, to do good work should not be smaller 
than two feet in diameter, and should have a weight of one 
hundred pounds to the foot in length. It should be used 
when seed is sown broadcast for the same reason that we 
press the soil over seed planted in the garden. It is also 
useful where a green crop has been turned under, to re¬ 
store capillary attraction with the soil below. It should 
generally be followed with a light harrow, to prevent the 
surface baking and loss of water. 

These are the commonest tools used in tillage aside 
from the hoe, rake, line and weeder used in every garden. 
Most of the tools are used to loosen the soil and to remove 
weeds. 

In the small garden the hoe or rake, should be used 

i \ 

at least once a week to make a soil mulch between the 


i6 


HINTS AND HELPS 


rows. The soil mulch consists of a soft loose condition of 
the top soil. It should be two to three inches deep. The 
weeder is used about the plants and between them, where 
there is not room for the hoe. 

All weeds near the plants should be pulled. A weed is 
a plant that persists in growing where it is not wanted. 
It is a robber. It robs the rightful plants of moisture and food 
and will even kill them. Weeds are best killed, when first 
germinated. Never allow them to grow. 

how to spadk. 

The Spade, is a tool made to pry with, to dig up the 
land. It differs from the shovel as it is made of heavier 
material, both the blade and handle. A shovel is used 
principally for digging loose material and is not supposed 
to be used for prying. The blade of the spade is made 
narrower than the shovel blade, so that it w r ill enter the 
ground more easily. The blade is also flatter and not as 
“dishing” as the shovel for the same reason. It is not 
made for shoveling or digging loose soil but for digging 
hard ground. Where the ground is not too hard the spad¬ 
ing fork is superior to the spade as it is lighter and the 
ground can be spaded faster. 

In spading , begin in one corner of the plot with the 
back to the plot. Grasp the top of the handle with the 
right hand, press the blade of the spade or fork vertically 
down to its full extent with the foot working the handle 
a little if necessary where the ground is excessively hard 
or stony. Then carry the top of the handle backward and 
downward near the ground, at the same time carry the left 
hand down the handle and w 7 hen at a point about one foot 
from the blade, lift up the spade and soil; turn it over, 
throwing it slightly forward to leave a furrow. Keep the 
back as straight as possible and do the lifting with the legs. 
Continue working along the end of the plot to be spaded. 
When across the end, spade back again, taking a slice from 
five to ten inches wide. When the spade-full of soil is 
turned over, it should be given a little throw and hit with 
the spade or fork to break it up. If the spading is done 




FOR YOUNG GARDENED. I 7 

well, it will leave the soil finer than the plow does. In 
fact it does the plowing and part of the harrowing. 

lo Rake the land, begin at one corner and rake to¬ 
wards the center. The rake should be used to level the 
land and break up the lumps rather than to rake them off. 
All coarse lumps that do not break up should be buried. 
Only the stone and very coarse matter should be raked 
off. W hen raking, lift the rake slightly when drawing it 
towards you. As in spading, rake one end first, stand on 
the spaded land and rake towards you. When smooth 
and fine, the footprints should be raked out as you pass 
off the plot. Spading and raking as well as plowing and 
harrowing are the first principals of tillage. 

In using The Hoe, grasp the handle near the upper 
end in the right hand, with the back of the hand up. 
Grasp it with the left hand a foot or more lower down with 
the back of the hand to the left and the thumb extended 
along the handle. Avoid a cramped position. Bend the 
bod)- slightly forward on the hips keeping the back 
straight. Never lift the hoe higher than the knee. Left- 
handed persons, and some that are not, will find it easier 
to have the left hand at the top. In this case the back of 
the right hand should be to the right and the thumb along 
the handle. These are correct positions for hoeing. Bet¬ 
ter work can be 
done and done eas¬ 
ier if one of these 
positions is always 
used. If the regu¬ 
lar 4 feet io inch 
hoe handle is used, 
the child should 
grasp the handle 
from 12 to 18 inches 
from the end. 

The Rake is held 
similar to the hoe 
























































































































iS 


HINTS AND HELPS 


but the handle is allowed to slide through the hands 
more. 

When not in use all tools should he cleaned and hung up. 
Have a place for everything and keep everything cleaned and 
in its place, it will pay. 




Modern Plows 












































CHAPTER IV. 

HOW TO TEST SEEDS. 

/*"^\\\ ING to the great importance of having good seed to 
plant, it is wise to test the seed before planting, to 
determine the percentage of live seeds. Eighty-five to 
ninety five per cent, of seeds that will start is a good aver¬ 
age for No. i seed. Take an average sample, count out 
ioo seeds and place them in a seed germinator. In the 
absence of a germinator a simple one can be made as fol¬ 
lows. take an old uncracked kitchen plate, cut two pieces 
of thick cloth or blotting paper, the size of the inner part 
of the plate, wet thoroughly and drain them. Put one 
piece of cloth on the plate, and scatter the seeds evenly 
^ if) cover them with the second cloth. Put a piece of 
glass or another plate over it, to prevent evaporation and 
>ot in a warm place. Examine frequently. If ioo seeds 
are used, the number of seeds that sprout will be the per¬ 
centage of viable seeds. These sprouted seeds make fine 
specimens for germination studies. It is well to test all 
seeds. 


1 he following is a good form for a seed testing blank: 


Name of Seed, 

No. of Seeds in Germinator,.When put in (Date) 

Date. 

No. of Seeds 
Sprouted. 

No. of Seeds not 
.Sprouted. 

Per cent, of Seed 

S nrouted. 






Source of Seed,. 

Total percent, of seed sprouted, 
Remarks 

Tested b}-. 


*9 



































20 


HINTS AND HELPS 


The seeds that are last to germinate in the germina- 
tors often fail entirely in the soil. 

Germination is the sprouting of the seed. It is not 
complete until the young plantlet is established in the soil. 

Monocotyledonous plants, those with one seed leaf, 
push their heads straight up. That is why they are so 
small. The little plant exists in the seed. The tiny 
leaves and stems are present, but the roots are lacking. 
Most seeds contain plenty of plant food to get the young 
plants well started in life. 


r 



Germinating seeds in a seed tester. 




CHAPTER V . 

HOW TO PUNT. 


A GARDEN should not be planted until the soil is thor¬ 
oughly prepared. It is better to plant a few days late 
than to put the seed or plants into poorly prepared soil. 
A sandy loam can be planted a week earlier than a medium 
or heavy loam. A southern slope of 45 0 to 6o°, increases 
the earliness of the soil a week over the same kind of soil 
on level ground. 

Thus radishes, which should be planted about May 
1st, in medium or heavy loam in the latitude of Hartford, 
could safely be planted on April 16th on sandy loam slop¬ 
ing to the south. Large seeds germinate quicker if they 
are soaked for a few hours in warm water at temperature 
not exceeding 120° F. They should not be soaked longer 
than twelve hours and the soaking of the seed should im¬ 
mediately precede the planting. With the land thorough¬ 
ly prepared, the plans decided upon, planting should be¬ 
gin as soon as the temperature is suitable. 

planting directions. 

Beans, Bush. Dwarf Horticultural Shell Beans, 
Cranberry Beans, Wax String Beans, and Giant Pod 
Valentine String Beans. 

These are among the best. These grow from 12 to 30 
inches high and have pods which enclose the seeds. In 
the Shell Bean varieties the seeds or beans are taken out 
of the pods and boiled and eaten alone, or with corn as 
succotash. The Horticultural beans are picked when the 
pods are striped with red. The pods of the string beans 
are eaten and should be picked before they become tough. 
A good way to tell when they are ready is to bend them in 
the shape of the letter U, they should snap. 

Plant all Bush varieties in rows not closer than two 
feet apart. Dig a furrow three inches deep and sprinkle 


21 


22 


HINTS AND HELPS 


a pint of wood aslies or one-half pint of sulphate of potash 
or bone dust, into the furrow to every ten feet. Mix this 
into the soil with a weeder or with a point of the hoe. 
When this is done the furrow will be about one inch deep. 
Place the beans three or four inches apart in the furrow, 
one bean in a place, cover with the fine soil, and press 
down with the back of the hoe. It will take them between 
one and two weeks to come up. The two halves of the 
bean furnishes food for the young plant, they are first to 
come above the soil. The soil should be kept well-tilled 
at all times, but avoid handling the vines on wet days. 
The beans will be ready to eat in from six to nine weeks 
after planting. Any of the Bush beans can be planted 
from May ioth to July ist. 

Beans, Bush Lima. Bush Lima Beans are planted 
the same as the other varieties of dwarf beans, except, 
each bean is put four to six inches apart in furrow. The 
pods should be picked when the beans in them are about 
the size of a twenty-five cent piece. They are generally 
considered much nicer than the ordinary shell bean. Bush 
Lima Beans continue to blossom and bear pods until frost 
comes. They should be planted about May ioth. If 
planted before the soil is warm, they will never germinate. 
It will take them three to six days longer than the other 
beans to come up. 

Beans, Pole. The furrows for Pole Beans are made 
not closer than three feet apart. The pole should be firmly 
set, belore the beans are planted and then four or five 
beans planted in circle around it. These should be covered 
about one inch, leaving the land level after the beans are 
planted. One pint of wood ashes, or one-half pint of sul¬ 
phate of potash or ground bone, should be worked into 
the hills at the rate of about one pint of wood ashes to 
every ten feet of row. Pole beans of any kind generally 
yield more than the Bush beans. If the first that ma¬ 
ture are picked, they will continue to bear. They should 
be planted at the same time as Bush beans, but it will take 
them one or two weeks longer, before they are ready to eat. 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


23 


Beets. Crosby’s Egyptian, or any table variety. 
Beets can be planted in rows one foot apart. If the ground 
is not rich, hoe a half-pint of market-garden fertilizer or a 
mixture of nitrate of soda, and super-phosphate into the 
soil in which they are to be planted, to every ten feet of 
row. Make a furrow one inch deep and drop the seed, one 
to two inches apart, cover with fine soil, and press down. 
They will be up in about six days and when they are four 
inches high they should be thinned to about three inches 
apart, using those that are pulled out to transplant or for 
greens. When they are transplanted, be sure to make boles 
deep enough, so that the end of the roots do not turn up, and 
twist off all the leaves except the center ones. Always 
keep the soil in a perfect state of tillage. Beets are cul¬ 
tivated for their roots, which are best when one to two 
inches in diameter. They can be planted from about 
April 30th, to July 10th. They are ready to eat in from 
eight to twelve weeks after planting. 

Brussels Sprouts. These should be planted in 
rows two feet apart. They do best on new land. Make a 
furrow one inch deep and drop three or four seeds every 
18 inches. Cover with fine soil and press down. They 
will come up in about six days. Brussels Sprouts are cul¬ 
tivated for the buds which are in the axils of the leaves. 
They are milder than the cabbage and are boiled and 
served with a cream sauce. They are ready to eat in about 
twenty-one weeks after planting and are best after they 
have been touched by the frost. They, like all the cab¬ 
bage family, do not do well in hot weather. They make 
their final growth in the cool months in autumn. Before 
the ground freezes they can be pulled up and packed up¬ 
right with their roots in moist sand, and in this condition 
can be kept in a cool cellar or pit nearly all winter. 

Broccoli. Should be planted about May 20th. The 
seed is covered one inch and the rows are not closer than 
two feet apart, and the plants, eighteen inches in the row. 
They are treated almost exactly as Brussels Sprouts in 
every way. The heads resemble Cauliflower and are 


24 


HINTS AND HELPS 


served similar to it. They are purple instead of white. 
They are ready to eat in about twenty-one weeks after 
planting. 

Cabbage. All Seasons and Jersey Wakefield, are 
among the best early. Cabbages are grown for their 
leaves which form a head, which becomes very solid. It 
is boiled and eaten, or eaten raw in many different ways. 
The early crop should be planted in March in a shallow 
box in the window garden, or in the hot-bed. The seeds 
are covered about one-half inch. They can be set out, one 
plant in a place in rows, two to three feet apart and eight¬ 
een to twenty-four inches apart in the row. The seed will 
be up in about six days. The young plants are best trans¬ 
planted when the fourth leaf has formed. They will stand 
frost, but should not be put out of doors when it is likely 
to freeze. They do best on new ground. They can be 
planted outside from April 30th to June 15th. The easiest 
way to grow them in the garden is to plant three or four 
seeds in hills two feet apart. To make a hill, drop a pint 
of wood ashes in the row every two feet and work it well 
into the soil with the weeder or hoe, leaving the soil one- 
half inch lower than the rest of the garden. Drop three 
or four seeds and cover one-half inch; press down. When 
the cabbages are w^ell up they should be thinned to one 
plant in a place. The rows cannot be closer than two feet. 
It is very important that the cabbage be frequently hoed. 
Stirring the soil every few days will pay well. 

Carrots. Chantenay, Danvers, Half Tong Orange, 
Earliest Scarlet Forcing are among the best varieties. 
These are cultivated for their roots. They should be 
planted in rows twelve inches apart and one inch deep. 
The seeds should be planted fairly thick as they do not 
always germinate well. It is not generally good the second 
year. A rich, deep loam is best. The land should be pre¬ 
pared the same as for Beets. When well up they should 
be thinned to three inches apart. 

Cauliflower. Early Snowball, and Early Dwarf 
Erfurt are among the best. Plant the seed in boxes in the 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


25 


window-garden or hot-bed, any time from March 1st to 
June 15th. When the fourth leaf has formed, the plants 
should be set out in rows, two feet apart and not closer 
than two feet apart in the row. The ground should al¬ 
ways be kept in a thorough state of tillage about the 
plants and it is well to hoe them in the morning when the 
dew is on. When the head begins to form, the long leaves 
should be tied over it to keep it white. Cauliflower like 
all the cabbage family, do best in cool weather and will 
grow rapidly if they come to the head during the summer. 
They will mature in from fifteen to twenty-five weeks. 
They will stand frost. 

Ceeery. Paris Golden, White Plume, and Boston 
Market are among the best garden varieties. The seed 
should be sown in a hot-bed or window box from April 
10th to May 20th. The box should have lumps in the 
bottom for drainage and the upper part should be 
filled with fine soil. Seed should be evenly sowed over 
the surface and covered one-fourth inch. When the third 
or fourth leaf has formed, the celery should be transplanted 
into the hot-bed or other boxes two inches apart each 
way. From this the plants should be set in the garden, 
in rows four or five feet apart and eight inches apart in the 
row. They can be set as late as July 15th, on land that 
has borne a crop of peas. A crop of peas, radishes, let¬ 
tuce, onion-sets or even beans may be grown between the 
rows of celery. The seed germinates very slowly and may 
not be up for a month. New seed should always be used. 
Celery is ready to eat from twenty to forty weeks after 
planting. In the fall it should be banked up and just be¬ 
fore the ground freezes, it should be dug and packed in 
pits or in the cellar and the roots covered with moist sand. 
If packed in the cellar it should have the coolest part and 
packed as close as possible and handled only when dry. 
Properly packed it will keep all winter and can be used at 
any time. 

CEEERiAC. This is used in flavoring soups and is 
grown for the fleshly root which matures like turnip. It 


26 


HINTS AND HELPS 


can be grown the same as celery or the seed may be sown 
in the garden, in rows two feet apart and the plants 
thinned to eight inches apart. As it does not germinate 
readily, it is best to start the plants in boxes and trans¬ 
plant them. 

Sweet Corn. Early Cory, Squantum, and Country 
Gentleman are among the best varieties and will mature 
according to the order in which they are named. It is 
w r ell to plant a few rows of the early, and then make 
several plantings of the Country Gentleman so as to have 
sweet corn from July until frost comes. To get the most 
irorn the land, plant in rows, two and a half feet or three 
feet apart, putting three kernels every six inches, and 
pulling out all but one as soon as the corn is well up. The 
suckers around the roots should be kept removed. Corn 
should be planted on the north end of the garden or in 
such a way as to prevent shading lower plants. It grows 
from five to eight feet high. Squantum or Country Gentle¬ 
man corn planted on or before June ist, will be in condi¬ 
tion to eat, when school opens in autumn, if it has had 
care during the summer. Corn will be ready from ten to 
twenty weeks after planting, according to the kind. Seeds 
should be covered one inch and the land should be rich in 
potash. It is well to hoe a pint of wood ashes or a half 
pint of sulphate of potash into every ten feet of row before 
planting. It is not generally wise to plant field and pop 
corn in the same garden as it will mix, the pollen being 
carried by the wind. 

Corn Salad. Corn Salad is a salad plant for sum¬ 
mer use. Sow May ist, in rows twelve inches apart and 
thin the plants to six inches in the row. The trench should 
be made one-half inch deep. It is grown for the leaves 
which are used for salad. It can also be planted in 
September for winter or early spring salad in which case 
it must be covered with straw on the approach of winter. 

Cress. Garden Cress should be planted in furrows, 
twelve inches apart and one-half inch deep. The plants 
should be thinned to six inches apart in the rows. It 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


27 


should be planted in the garden about April 30th, and 
the crop will be ready to eat in about five or six weeks. 
The leaves are eaten as a relish and used as a salad. 

CucumbKR. White Spine is one of the best for table 
use. Early Cluster, Ever Bearing, Windsor Pickling are 
good pickling varieties. The cucumber grows on a vine 
and should not be planted in very small gardens, unless 
along a fence where it can climb. It can be planted be¬ 
side a rubbish heap or a pile of stones to good advantage. 
It belongs to the same family as the canteloupe, water¬ 
melon, pumpkin, and squash, which are all planted the 
same way. They should be planted in hills not closer 
than four or five feet apart, although they may be planted 
nearer to early beans or early potatoes or any crop which 
will be out of the way before the vines begin to run. The 
vines are generally allowed to run on the ground. They 
are planted in hills. To make a bill , dig a hole from four 
to five inches deep and one foot in diameter. Fill this 
within one inch of the top with a mixture of sand and well- 
rotted manure. Drop eight to ten seeds in a hill, scatter¬ 
ing them over it. Cover them half to one inch and press 
down. When planted in this way they get a quick start. 
Never plant until the ground is thoroughly warm, about 
May 25th. It is well to keep the vines covered with a 
frame of mosquito netting until the fourth leaf has formed, 
then thin the plants to three or four in a hill. In warm 
weather they come up and grow rapidly. They begin 
bearing in from eight to ten weeks after planting. 

Dandeeion. The dandelion may be planted in the 
spring or in August or the first of September. The former 
time will give the largest plants the following spring. 
Plant in rows about April 30th, twelve to twenty-four 
inches apart and thin the plants to six or eight inches 
apart. They should be up in about eight days. It is jest 
to plant these in the sunniest part of the garden and to 
cover them in the early spring with sash so as to get very 
early greens. They should be planted in gardens that are 
to remain for two or three years. In case they are not all 


28 


HINTS AND HELPS 


used in the early spring, they should be kept mowed to 
prevent their going to seed as they may become a trouble¬ 
some weed. They are used not only for greens, but also 
blanched and used for a salad. The seeds should be 
lightly covered and the plants kept in a good state of til¬ 
lage. It is not a plant to grow in the School Garden. 

Egg Plant. Egg Plants grow on bushes from 
twelve to eighteen inches high. The fruit is purple and 
should be picked when it is about two or three inches in 
diameter. The seeds should be planted in boxes in the 
window garden or in the hot-bed in February or as soon as 
the first of March. Cover about quarter of an inch. When 
the third or fourth leaves are formed, they should be potted 
into two and a half inch pots and later repotted into four 
inch pots. They should be transplanted into the open 
ground about the first of June. The ground should be 
made very rich. They should be set about two feet apart 
in the row with the rows two and one half or three feet 
apart. In setting them, make a hole so the plant can be 
set a little lower than it was growing in the pot. To re¬ 
move it from the pot place the fingers over the pot, so that 
the plant comes between the first and second fingers, 
invert it, and thump it lightly on the table, bench, 
or spade, and the plant will be readily removed. 
Crumble the upper and lower edges slightly, place it in 
the hole and press the fine soil about the ball of earth 
firmly with the ends of the fingers. If it is dry it is best 
to water. You can begin cutting the fruit in about fifteen 
weeks after planting and they will continue bearing until 
frost. The Egg Plant like the tomato furnishes an oppor¬ 
tunity for lessons in potting and repotting. 

Endive. For an early crop start in the hot-bed or 
window garden and transplant the same as the egg plant 
in rows twelve inches apart with the plants twelve inches 
apart in the row. For the later crop sow from May ist to 
July 30th, in the garden, in furrows, one-half inch deep. 
It germinates readily and will be up in four to six days. 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


29 


It is cultivated for the leaves which are used for salad. 
When well grown, tie the ends of the leaves to blanch the 
center with a soft material. It should be used about two 
weeks after tieing. 

Kale. Kale is planted in rows eighteen to twenty- 
four inches apart, and thinned to twelve inches apart in 
the row. It is planted one-half inch deep and can be 
planted at any time from April 30th to June 1st. It is used 
for greens and is best after it has been touched by the 
frost. It belongs to the cabbage family and makes its 
best growth in the cool part of the year. 

Kohe Rabi. Sow in furrows, twelve to eighteen 
inches apart, cover the seed one-half inch and thin the 
plants to six inches apart. They will be up in five to six 
days. Plant from May 1st to July 1st. The bulb is formed 
on the stem, just above the ground; it is cooked and served 
the same as turnip, but tastes similar to cabbage, only 
milder. They are best when not more than two inches 
through. If they stand long after they reach this size, they 
become tough. They are ready to eat in from twelve to 
fourteen weeks after planting. They can be stored in a 
cool cellar, and for a winter crop should be planted as late 
as July 1st. 

Lettuce. There are two kinds of Lettuce; the Cos 
and the Head Lettuce. The Head Lettuce forms a head 
like cabbage. The Hartford Bronzed head, Big Boston, 
White and Black seeded Tennis-ball, and Hanson make 
large and fine heads. Used for salad and table use. Let¬ 
tuce can be planted in-doors, the same as Endive and 
transplanted to the garden, May 10th, or it may be sown 
in the garden any time after May 1st to July 10th. Pre¬ 
pare the land the same as for beets, make a trench one-half 
inch deep and sow two or three seeds every four to six 
inches. Cover and press down. When the plants are 
well up, thin them to six inches apart. Keep the soil well- 
tilled around the plants, and as soon as they crowd, take 
out every other one for table use. In warm weather, let¬ 
tuce runs quickly to seed, and should be cut as soon as the 


30 


HINTS AND HELPS 


heads are well formed. The heads are ready for the table 
in from eight to twelve weeks after being planted. Let¬ 
tuce in the summer is not quite as good, but if planted the 
first of July, a fine autumn crop may be obtained. 

Lkek. Sow in rows, twelve inches apart, about April 
25th, cover one inch, and when the plants are well up, 
thin to three inches apart. When eight or ten inches high, 
hill up to blanch the stalks. They will be ready to eat 
from sixteen to twenty weeks after sowing the seed. 

Mustard. White English is the best table variety. 
The leaves are used for greens or for salads. It is culti¬ 
vated the same as Cress. 

Melons. Both Musk and Water Melons are treated 
almost exactly the same as Cucumbers in the garden. For 
cultural directions, see cucumber. 

Okra. For an early crop of Okra, the seeds may be 
planted inside, in March, and the plants treated the same 
as Egg Plant. Out of doors the seeds should be planted 
about May 20th, in rows two and one-half to three feet 
apart. The seeds should be covered one inch and the 
plants should be thinned to eighteen to twenty-four inches 
in the row. The seed pods are stewed and also used in 
soup. It will be ready to eat in twelve to fourteen weeks 
after planting. 

Onions. Onions form a true bulb and are used in 
medicine as well as for table use. Sow the seeds as early 
as the ground can be thoroughly prepared. Hoe a little 
lime or sulphur into the soil where the row is to be. Make 
a furrow one inch, and press down over the seeds with a 
flat board or block. When the little plants are three inches 
high thin them out to three inches apart. 

Parsley. It is cultivated for the leaves which are 
fine and feathery in appearance. It is used for garnishing 
meats and flavoring soups. It is a biennial and will make 
an attractive plant for the window garden all through the 
winter. It is hardy and will stand freezing. It adds to a 
bouquet of flowers. It is better to sow the seeds in a box in 
the window garden. For this purpose mix one part soil and 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


31 


two parts sand. Mix well and sift, placing lumps in the 
bottom of the box for drainage. Fill the box nearly half 
full of lumps, broken pots or pieces of brick; then put in 



a b C 

A set of Sieves. 

A, half inch Mesh; b, one-fourth inch Mesh; c flour Sieve. Buy the 
woven wire and any boy can make the first two sieves. 

Get the other at the hardware store. 

Cut loaned by Doubleday, Page & Co., N. Y. 


the fine soil, pressing down the corners with the fingers. 
Heap the soil up on the box, and with a smooth stick 
scrape it off level. Place the seeds in the left hand and 
with the thumb and fingers of the right hand scatter the 
seed evenly over the surface of the soil. Cover all, sift¬ 
ing a little dry soil through a flour sieve over the seeds, 
not more than one-eighth or one-sixteenth inch in thick¬ 
ness. Press down firmly and evenly with a block or board; 
put in the window garden and sprinkle with water thor¬ 
oughly. Do not allow the soil to dry up. When the young 
plants are up well, they may be transplanted into pots or 
other boxes. For this, mix one part of soil, one part of 
sand and one part of well-rotted manure together. Place a 
piece of broken earthenware in the bottom of the pot for 
drainage, then fill the pot about one-third full of the mixed 
soil; then holding the plant in the left hand so that it is in 
the center of the pot, fill evenly on all sides; press down 
firmly but not too hard, thump the pot on the bench or 
table to settle the soil; take it to the window garden and 
sprinkle it, placing it in partial shade for a day or two. 
Nearly all seeds can be planted and potted in this way. 
























32 


HINTS AND HELPS 



A lesson in potting. 

These plants can be set out in the garden six inches apart. 
Always keep the ground in a good state of cultivation 
around them. 

Parsnip. Champion Hollow Crown is one of the best 
varieties. It should be planted in the garden about May 
ioth, in rows twelve inches apart. The furrows should be 
made one inch deep. The seed will be up in about two 
weeks. As soon as they are about four inches high, they 
should be thinned to three to four inches apart in the row. 
Parsnips are best, if they can remain in the ground through 
the winter, being dug as needed. They are much sweeter 
after they have been frozen. The soil should be deep and 
thoroughly prepared, the same as for beets. 

Peppers. Peppers of all kinds should be planted in 
the window garden, or hot bed about February 15th, and 
treated in every way the same as parsley or egg plant, un- 







FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


til they are set out. They should be set out in rows, 
twelve inches apart, and twelve inches apart in the row. 
The peppers will be ready to pick in about twenty weeks 
after planting. 

Peas. Little Gem or any of the dwarf varieties; if 
they can be planted against the fence, where they have 
support, the Stratagem, Champion of England and Tele¬ 
phone are among the best. The Little Gem is one of the 
best for the garden. Peas are raised for the peas which grow 
in pods, and are best when they are about the size of buck¬ 
shot. The land is prepared the same as for beans, except 
that the trench is made four inches deep, instead of three, 
and the peas are covered one inch. Leave the surface 
above them about two inches lower than the surrounding 
garden. When they come up, the ground is gradually 
filled in until it is level. All of the dwarf varieties should 
mature in from six to eight weeks after planting. Look for 
the nitrogen traps on the roots. 

Potatoes. Potatoes belong to a different class of 
vegetables, in that the part that is eaten is a tuber, a 
thickened underground stem. The land is prepared by 
making a trench four inches deep, and hoeing one-half 
pint of commercial fertilizers into each ten-foot row. The 
potatoes are cut so that there are two eyes to each piece. 
Place these pieces ten to twelve inches apart in the trench, 
and cover them about two inches. When the plants are 
up, keep the ground well tilled about them, and as they 
grow, heap up the soil, making a broad hill. Potatoes are 
about the only plants that it is usually wise under ordinary 
conditions to hill up. Watch for the potato beetle, which 
should be killed as fast as found. Rows of potatoes, like 
peas and beans, should not be closer than two to two and 
one-half feet apart. Potatoes develop underneath the 
ground; they are not roots, but tubers. The eyes correspond 
to the buds that you find on stems above ground. They 
contain a large amount of starch, and are used in starch 
factories, as well as for table use. Always keep the ground 
free from weeds and in a good state of tillage. 


34 


HINTS AND HELPS 


Pumpkins. Pumpkinsshould not be planteu in the gar¬ 
den, only around the edges or in the corn, or where they 
may run over fences and piles of stones. They are treated 
in every way for garden culture as cucumbers, which see. 

Radish. Hoe one-half pint of market garden fertilizer 
or a mixture of nitrate of soda and super-phosphate into 
the soil where the radishes are to be planted. Make a 
trench one-half inch deep, sow the seeds one inch apart, 
cover with fine soil and press down. All turnip shaped 
varieties of radish will mature in three to five weeks, and 
the longer varieties in five to ten weeks. The radish is 
grown for its root, which is for table use. It belongs 
to the same class as turnips, parsnips and beets, all of 
which should be planted in rows at least one foot apart. 
Radishes can be planted continuously and always insure a 
crop. 

Salsify. Salsify or Oyster Plant should be planted 
about May ioth, in the garden, in rows twelve inches apart 
and should be treated in every way the same as parsnips. 

Spinach. Spinach is cultivated for the leaves and 
should be planted about April 25th. It should be treated 
the same as beets. 

Summer Squash. Summer Squash is treated in the 
garden the same as cucumber, which see. 

Tomatoes. Tomatoes grow on bushes from eighteen 
to sixty inches high, according to the kind and the manner 
of training. The fruit is red or yellow and is for table 
use, both raw and cooked. The plant yields heavily and 
is generally one of the best plants for the garden. They 
should not be planted closer than three feet apart in the 
row and the rows should be at least three feet from any 
other crop, except radishes which can be planted within 
two or even one foot of them when the plants are first set 
out. The seeds should be planted the last of February or 
the first of March, in the window garden or hot-bed, the 
same as egg plant. The plants are potted into three-inch 
pots as soon as the third leaf is formed. They make nice 
plants for setting out in the garden about May 15th. I11 












#?«& i fe •: 


Two kinds of measuring learned in gardening. 

Photo by EJdward Mahoney. 




















36 


HINTS AND HELPS 


setting them, dig a hole so that the plant can be set one to 
two inches lower than it was growing in the pot. Put the 
plant into the hole and press the loose soil firmly about 
the ball of earth. If the weather is dry, water when setting. 
Stake the plants about July ist. 

Turnip. The early crop of turnips should be planted 
about April 30th while the late crop should be planted 
about July 25th. They are planted in the garden, in rows 
about one foot apart and thinned to four inches apart in 
the row. The seed is covered one-half inch. They are 
often sown broadcast, where early corn is planted, so as to 
get a crop in the fall. Turnips sown in the last of July 
should remain in the ground until just before the ground 
freezes. They can then be packed in pits or in a cool cel¬ 
lar in boxes of sand and keep all winter. The Swede 
turnip should be planted in the spring about May 10th, in 
rows about twelve inches apart, as it will require the en¬ 
tire season to develop the root. 



First lesson in gardening. 









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§ Treated :is annuals in this climate. * Do not cover. f Use trelleses or over stone. J On trelleses. 
All plants marked (§) may lie potted the 1st of September and they will bloom in winter inside. 

























































CHAPTER V I . 

HOW TO DIG AND SET TREES. 

ro dig a small tree, ten or twelve feet high, dig around 
* it about eighteen inches from the trunk, until below 
most of the roots; then, put the spade under the tree and 
lift up, at the same time pressing the top away. Repeat 
the operation on the other side of the tree if necessary. In 
the nursery row a man on each side can put the spade 
down its full length about one foot from the trunk. Both 
should press the spade, handle down at the same time 
with one hand and lift the tree out with the other. 

Trees should be set as soon as possible after digging. 
All roots that are broken should be cut with a sharp 
knife or pruning shears so they will heal quickly. When 
the roots are very thick and interlaced, as is sometimes 
the case with nursery trees, the roots should be judiciously 
thinned. Always try not to leave two branches opposite; 
they may make a bad crotch. Always cut off all 
crossing and twining shoots and generally cut back the 
ends of the branches. One year old (from the bud) peach 
or apricot trees should be pruned to a single stem. 

TO SET THE TREE. 

A stake should be placed where each tree is to be set. 
A planting board should be used, which consists of a strip 
or board with a notch in the center, and one near each end. 



Plantiu" Boards. 

o 


(39) 


; 










40 


HINTS AND HELPS 


It is placed so the center notch comes to the stake where 
the tree is to set and one stake is placed in each of the end 
notches. The center stake is then removed and the hole 
dug. Always have the hole a little too large for the 
trees’ roots. If the soil is poor dig the hole deep, and 
spade the top soil or some good garden soil into the bottom 
of the hole. Spread out the roots in their natural position, 
and fill in the fine soil about them, pressing it in around 
the roots with the hands. 

Place the setting board so the stakes come into the 
end notches, and have the tree come into the center one. 
Be sure the tree is set straight. If in a very windy section, 
incline a little towards the direction of the prevailing 
winds. In larger trees always place the thickest side 
towards the direction from wdrich the prevailing winds 
come. 

Trees can be set in the spring, any time after the frost 
is out of the ground, until the buds start. The ground 
should be made very firm around the roots and mulch 
should be kept on top. If late in the season or if the soil 
is dry the trees should be watered. Watering helps to 
settle the soil about the roots. Later, mulch the trees 
with soil or grass. Shrubs are set the same as trees. 



Wrong and right way of digging the holes for trees. 







CHAPTER VII. 

TO MAKE A HOTBED AND CARE FOR SAME. 

pAKE two twelve inch planks or boards and stand 

A them on edge for the back, one on top of the other, 
and one twelve inch plank or board for the front. Nail or 
screw cleats on them to prevent them from warping. The 
ends are made five feet, ten inches long and placed inside 
the sides. Saw one twelve inch board, cut five feet, ten 
inches long, diagonally and place on top of a twelve inch 
board of the same length at each end of the bed. Put two 
by two or two by four inch posts in the corners and nail, 
screw or bolt the sides and ends to them. The best loca¬ 
tion is a sunny exposure facing the south or southwest. 
The best exposure is on the south side of a building or 
fence as the bed is then protected from cold winds. The 
front or low side , should always he towards the sun. Hotbed 
sash are generally made three feet by six feet. The glass 
in them should lap about three-sixteenths of an inch. 
Sash are made to take six by eight inch, eight by ten inch 
and ten by twelve inch glass. The latter gives the most 
light but the sash containing less bars are not quite as 
strong. Old windows may be used, in which case the bed 
is made as wide as the windows are long. The edges of 
the planks should be planed, according to the slant, so the 
sash fit exactly. If the bed is to remain permanently, the 
sash may be hinged on the back, or, if there is room, they 
may slide. It is necessary to put braces from front to back 
of the bed, and it is well to put these every three feet, so 
the sash may rest on them. The top of them should be 
nearly, or quite, even with the top of the frame. Two by 
four inch strips should be used with the ends cut on a 
bevel so they fit exactly. To get this bevel, place the two 
by four inch strips on the hotbed frame and hold a straight 
edged stick or square against the inside of the front and 

41 


42 


HINTS AND HELPS 


back of the frame and draw lines on the two by four inch 
strips. If cut along these lines the strip will slide into 
place and is then nailed. 

When the frame is completed, dig out the soil (inside) 
to a depth of ten to twelve inches, then fill in with fresh, 
decomposing, well-mixed horse manure to a depth of one 



Preparing the Hot-bed. 

foot after it is trodden down. When evenly and well 
trodden, wet it down and put on about four inches of good 
soil. Have the manure and soil deeper on the back of the 
bed so it will slant nearly as much as the glass. Put on 
the glass. Allow it to remain until the manure heats and 
the temperature of the manure falls to go 0 F. This is ob¬ 
tained by placing a thermometer about two inches into 
the soil. It will take five to fifteen days. Water thor¬ 
oughly if dry. When the temperature of the manure and 








FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


43 


soil have fallen to 90° F. begin using the bed. If the 
weather is cold, bank the outside of the frame with strawy 
manure. For low plants, like lettuce and radishes, the 
soil may be as near as six inches to the glass. The soil 
will always settle from two to six inches. 

The hotbed is generally started in February or March, 
but can be started earlier by using more manure. It must 
always be in a well drained location. 

THE CARE OF THE BED. 

The hotbed needs good and regular care. It is the 
farmer’s greenhouse and in it can be grown a large vari¬ 
ety of vegetables or flowers. After the 1st of April the 
hotbed should generally be watered early every pleasant 
morning, and whenever dry before then. If the weather 
is cold the bed should be watered in the middle of the day, 
when the sash can be lifted for a few minutes. 

Much care is needed in ventilating the bed as the de¬ 
composing manure will use up the air, and plants cannot 
make good growth without fresh air. The sun, also, 
causes intense heat on fair days. Hotbeds should have 
a little air on fair days even in winter. Generally how T - 
ever, keep the temperature, during bright days, between 
6o° and 8o°, and cloudy days between 50° and 70°. A 
temperature of 90° or ioo°, with the sash partly open, 
would do no harm, while a temperature of 75 in sunlight, 
with the bed closed tight, might do harm. O11 cold and 
cloudy days only open a very little, for a very few minutes 
in the middle of the day. A thermometer should always be 
in every bed. 

Cotton Shutters are cheap and nearly or quite as 
good as sash after the danger of heavy frost is past. 
They are made by tacking cheese cloth over a frame made 
the same size as the sash. These frames are easily made 
from planed furring strips. Cold nights the hotbeds 
should always be covered with mats. In winter, shutters 
should be placed over the mats. The bed without (heat) 
manure is called a cold frame. 


44 


HINTS AND HELPS 



A Cotton Shutter Frame. 

THINGS TO REMEMBER. 

ist. Decide the location of the hotbed. 

2d. Decide the size of the bed. 

3d. Cut the boards the right lengths. 

4th. Put on the Cleats. 

5th. Take boards to the location. 

6th. Arrange boards on ground near where they 
are to stand. 

7th. Set up sides and ends and fasten them together. 
8th. Put in the braces. 

9th. Dig out the bed. 

10th. Fill in and tread manure, water and add four 
inches of soil. Put on glass and keep closed for a few days. 















CHAPTER VIII. 

STRAWBERRY CULTURE. 


*"T f HE strawberry is one of the most important of the 
1 small fruits. It will grow with a fair degree of suc¬ 
cess on most any soil. A moist, dark, sandy loam is best. 
Any soil that will grow a crop of corn or potatoes will 
grow strawberries. The richer the soil the larger the 
crop. It should be well drained. If the water level is 
high, the land should be underdrained, otherwise surface 
drainage will be sufficient. The soil should he thoroughly 
prepared , thoroughly plowed , heavily manured , and thoroughly 
harrowed until the surface is fine and mellow before the 
plants are set. The setting is done either in the spring, 
summer, or early fall. The early spring is best, unless 
pot plants are used. In setting, use only the runners. 
Take them up with a fork. Pick off old, dry leaves. Use 
only plants with light colored roots and clip off one-third 
of them. Do not let the sun shine on the roots. 

For a garden, set the plants two feet by two feet. 
Make a marker like a rake with the teeth, two feet apart. 
Mark the land both ways. A man should mark an acre 
in half a day. The plants are then dropped by boys at 
each section. They are set by men who pick them up 
with their left hands and spread the roots in a fan shape 
between the fingers at the same time opening the hole with 
the right hand. Lower the plant into the ground with the 
left hand, press the soil firmly about the roots with both 
hands, leaving the crown slightly lower than the surround¬ 
ing soil. Be very careful not to cover it. One man should 
set half an acre in a day. If the ground is not wet each 
plant should receive one pint of water. 

For field culture, the plants are often set three feet 
apart in the rows, with the rows three to four feet apart. 
Where pistillate varieties are used it is necessary to have 

45 


46 


HINTS AND HELPS 


seme perfect variety every third row so as to polleni^e the 
imperfect ones. 

The beds should be kept clean and free from weeds 
at all times. Train the runners in a circle about the 
plants. Cover in winter after the ground is frozen, to 
protect the plants from freezing and thawing. Pine or 
hemlock boughs, marsh hay, or straw free from weeds are 
the best covers. Keep them covered till all freezing 
nights are over. In the spring, apply wood ashes, 500 
lbs. to acre, and unless the ground is very rich apply 
nitrate of soda, 160 lbs. to the acre. The first }^ear it is 
well to grow some other crop between the rows, such as 
radish, lettuce, onion sets or even cabbage. 



Strawberry Barrel. 

THE BARREL METHOD. 

Take any strong barrel, nail on the hoops and clinch 
the nails inside. Then bore two or three holes in the bot¬ 
tom near the sides for drainage. Then beginning about 
eight inches from the bottom bore holes one and one-half 
or two inches in diameter, eight inches apart around the 




FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


47 


barrel. Make a similar row of holes four to six inches 
from the top and a row of holes between the two rows. 
Take an old conductor, land tile or even four laths. 
Make holes in them, and place in the center of the barrel. 
Through this the plants will be watered. Use half soil, 
half manure, with some bone mixed in it. Fill up to the 
first row of holes, set the plants by putting them inside 
and pulling out the leaves through the holes in the first 
row. Fill up the barrel to the second row and set the 
plants in the same way, and the third row the same. 
Always he sure and press the soil firmly , before setting the 
plants. Fill the barrel full and set six plants in the top. 
Many persons can have one or more barrels of strawberries 
in their yards when they have not room for a strawberry 
bed. A single barrel may yield fifteen to twenty quarts. 









CHAPTER IX. 

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 

A SPARAGUS officinalis, belongs to the Liliaceae 
Family. 

Asparagus is a native of Europe and Asia and has 
been cultivated for 2,000 years or more. It was grown by 
the Greeks and Romans. The so-called leaves are leaf¬ 
like branches. The true leaves are scales and in the axils 
of these branches arise. 

Asparagus is a rugged plant and will live in most any 
soil. It does best on well-drained, well-manured, and 
well-tilled soil and for an early crop the land selected 
should be a warm loam with a southern exposure, if pos¬ 
sible. Bulky manures should be used at the start to fur¬ 
nish plenty of vegetable matter. Eater use manures rich 
in nitrogen and potash. 

Plant the seed thinly in rows one to three feet apart as 
early as the ground can be worked easily. In setting the 
new beds use strong, one-year old plants. 

FOR THE GARDEN BED. 

Dig out the space to be devoted to asparagus to a 
depth of eighteen or more inches. Put six or eight inches 
of coarse manure or compost into the bottom and spade it 
in well. The top of the bed will then be about ten inches 
lower.than the surrounding garden. 

Take the freshly dug roots, and set them on a little 
mound one foot apart each way, spreading the roots as they 
were growing in the seed bed. Fill in over the roots with 
two or three inches of loose, rich soil. When the plants 
start, fill in gradually until level. In the fall as soon as 
the tops begin to turn brown, cut them and burn them. 
Cover the beds in winter with a liberal supply of strawy 
This should be turned under by shallow spad- 


manure. 


FOR YOUNG GARDENKRS. 


49 


ing or plowing in the spring. For the garden, it is best to 
have a narrow bed or a two foot walk between two narrow 
beds four feet wide. 

FOR FIELD CULTURE. 

Set the plants two feet apart in the rows with the rows 
five or six feet apart. Plow out the rows deep and set the 
plants eight or ten inches below the surface, covering 
them two to four inches. Fill gradually by harrowing and 
cultivating. After the second year begin cutting. 

Cut the stalks daily in tne early morning, with the 
asparagus knife, just below the surface, using care not to 
injure other shoots that are coming up. If the ground is 
rich and well tilled, the stalks will be nearly one inch 
through. They should be four to eight inches long. 


WINDOW GARDENING. 


W INDOW gardening is something more than simply 
filling a box with plants. We hear green-house 
construction men speak of the window garden meaning the 
addition put on the outside of a window thereby making a 
miniature green-house heated by the sun and the warm air 
of the room. The Civic Improvement Societies speak of 
window gardening and window boxes referring to those 
boxes filled with plants and placed on the outside of tene¬ 
ment houses for the spring and summer. Again, we hear 
of window gardening and window boxes in the autumn 
for the cultivation of plants inside the house. W indow 
gardening in its broadest sense includes even more than 
all these. It includes the preparation of the soil, the 
artistic filling of the boxes or arrangement of the pots, 
either inside or outside of the window, and the care and 
treatment of the plants. 

The present methods of heating and lighting by kero¬ 
sene or gas (not electricity) produce a dry atmosphere 
which is detrimental to the vegetable growth. In houses 
lighted by electricity and heated by any system which 
introduces an abundance of fresh air, the matter is not so 
troublesome. Too much heat and dry air are harder for 
plants than insufficient light, but lack of light is also one 
of the drawbacks of the window garden. Dust and insects 
do harm but are more easily overcome. On account of the 
dry air, plants often do better in boxes than in pots be¬ 
cause there is more soil space to evaporate moisture, 
which makes a moist atmosphere about them. Water iu 
zinc pans under the pots accomplishes the same purpose, 
but the pots should be raised so they do not set in water. 
Saucers will answer the same purpose but the moisture is 
likely to pass through the pores and injure the woodwork. 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


51 


A kitchen makes a fine hospital for sick plants as the 
moisture from cooking makes a damp atmosphere. 

The very best plants for a window garden are those 
adapted to resist a dry atmosphere and high temperature 
and insufficient light. They are found among tropical 
plants with coriaceous leaves with small stomata, such as 
Palms, Rubber Plants, etc. Flowering plants are best in¬ 
troduced when about to bloom. The best windows for 
most plants are those with a southern exposure. Trouble 
is likely to come from the use of unsuitable soil. The 
best time to take up plants, growing in the open air, for 
winter bloom inside is generally the last of August. Pot 
them and put in a shaded place for a few days, sprinkling 
the foliage during the middle of pleasant weather. Plants 
so treated will get a good start and bloom during the win¬ 
ter months instead oi waiting until Spring as is likely to 
be the case with plants remaining in the ground till frost 
comes. Avoid draughts and the application of too much 
water at the root until the plants have become accustomed 
to their new quarters. 

I will treat briefly of the following topics: 

1. Mixing and fertilizing the soil. 

For common plants—Geraniums, Coleus, Bego¬ 
nias. 

For Palms and Roses. 

For Cacti, etc. 

2. Selecting and arranging the plants in boxes. 

3. Potting and re-potting plants. 

4. Propagation. 

5. Bulbs. 

6. Care of plants. 

MIXING AND FERTILIZING THE SOIL. 

The preparation of the soil is one of the first and most 
important points for success in gardening of any kind. It 
is obvious with plants grown in pots or boxes where the 
roots are necessarily more or less cramped, that the soil 
must be rich in available food and in sustaining power. 


52 


HINTS AND HELPS 


The mixtures that I shall give will give satisfactory 
results and are more easily obtained than mixtures often 
given. Persons having a larger variety of materials at 
their command usually have a gardener competent to mix 
the soil to suit the needs of the individual plants. 

For Common Plants such as Geraniums, Coeeus, 
Fuchsias, Etc., mix one part of soil, one part of well 
rotted manure (cow manure if obtainable) spread this on 
the potting bench (a shutter placed on two horses, or an 
old table serves the purpose). To a bushel of this mixture 
apply one quart of bone meal and four quarts of gritty 
sand, if obtainable; mix thoroughly with the spade and 
then with the hands until it contains a large amount of 
air. A sprinkling c*f air-slaked lime and a pint of tobacco 
dust will help to rid all objectionable insects. Have the 
soil moist (neither wet nor dry) and mix it until there are 
no lumps. Allow this soil to remain over night or for 
several days and mix again when ready to put the plants 
into it. This work cannot be too thoroughly done. A 
spring hot-bed will often furnish sufficiently well rotted 
manure in the Fall in case cow manure is not to be had. 

For Palms and Roses use in place of the soil pure 
clay. This is generally best mixed by allowing it to dry 
and then pulverizing and mixing. 

Cacti of all kinds are not generally suited by the 
ordinary soil mixtures, and while not very common in the 
window garden, their odd shapes and the free flowering 
habit of some species attract attention. For potting them 
use plenty of drainage and equal parts of mixed soil, sand 
and brick rubble. 

selecting and arranging the plants. 

Everywhere in nature there are societies of plants that 
grow and thrive together. In selecting the plants for the 
window box, great care should be exercised, not only to 
select those that will best harmonize in color and present 
the best artistic appearance, but to select those that will 
best grow together under the conditions. A collection 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


53 


that will do well in a south window will not do well in a 
north window, and vice-versa. For success do not crowd 
too many plants into the box and do not expect the box 
to present its best appearance when first filled; give some 
room for growth and development. There are two methods 
of filling: one where all the tall plants are placed at the 
back of the box and the low ones in front; the other where 
tall plants are in the center and low plants or vines either 
side. The latter gives the most lasting effect since when 
the box is turned about the light is more evenly divided 
among the different plants. The box should have several 
one-inch holes in the bottom for drainage and a zinc pan 
should be placed under it. It should be raised from the 
pan enough to prevent its setting in water. In the absence 
of a pan a tight box can be used but will require great care 
in watering. Outside boxes may be filled in the early 
spring, even befoie the frost is out of the ground, with 
well hardened Pansies or Beilis Plants (Perannis) or both. 
A good assortment will make a very showy box. After 
the danger of frost is passed and Pansies are not blooming 
so well, take them out and fill the box with any of the 
plants given in the list best suited to your exposure, or 
mixed Petunia seed may be sown among the Pansies and 
the latter allowed to remain. The Petunias will grow 
rapidly as soon as the warm weather comes and entirely 
fill the box with an abundance of bloom. Vines can be 
used in connection with them. In the Fall, when the flow¬ 
ering plants are killed, they can be pulled up and some 
hardy evergreens planted, as Spruce, Hemlock, Juniper, 
or Cedar. In this way the box will look attractive the 
entire year. In the Spring take out the old soil and put 
in new. Plants for outside boxes in Spring, February to 
May: Violets, Pansies, Beilis, Forget-me-nots, and Bulbs. 
The latter should be planted in the Fall. 

For Sunny Exposures: Achranthus, Alternanthera, 
Ageratum, Begonias, Coleus, Cornflower, Dusty Miller, 
Marguerite, Geranium, Petunias, Salvias, Snap Dragons, 


54 


HINTS AND HELPS 


For the Box Edges: Alyssum, Ivies, Lobelia, 
Morning Glory, Periwinkles (Vincas), Tradescantias, 
(Wandering Jew), Tropaeolums (Nasturtiums). 

For Shady Exposures: Fuchsias, Begonias, Dra¬ 
caenas, Ferns, Feverfew. 

For Edges: Ivies, Periwinkles, Dusty Miller. 

Cornflower, Snap Dragons, Verbenas, Marguerite, 
Feverfew, and Dusty Miller will stand considerable frost. 
For winter, fill the box with Enonymus, Yew, Spruce, etc. 
Small Norway Spruce one or two feet high can be obtained 
for fifteen or twenty-five cents each. 

for inside boxes. 

For Sunny Warm Rooms: Cupheas, Heliotrope, 
Hydrangea, Marguerite, Geraniums, Bulbs, Mignonette, 
Salvias, Petunias, Jerusalem Cherries, Cytissus, Roses. 

For North Windows: Begonias, Bulbs, Cyperus 
(Umbrella Palm), Dracaenas, Ferns, Fuchsias, Myrtles, 
Rex Begonias, etc. 

P a or School Rooms where the temperature is likely 
to be low between Friday nights and Monday mornings: 

Where the Temperature is Maintained: Achran- 
thus, Abutilons, Cannas, Dracaena, Dusty Miller, Fuch¬ 
sias, Feverfew, Geranium, Hibiscus, Myrtle, Gnaphaliums, 
Pansies, Pinks, Verbenas, Snap Dragons, Violets. 

Where there is Danger of P'rost: Forget-me- 
nots, Verbenas, Feverfew, Snap Dragons, Myrtle, Um¬ 
brella Palm, Violet, Pansies, Abutilons, Hibiscus. 

All boxes for large plants should be at least six 
inches deep and should have one or two inches at the bot¬ 
tom or broken pots or brick rubble for drainage; then fill 
the box about one-lialf full of soil and set the large plants 
in position; then fill in soil evenly on all sides, pressing 
it firmly about the plants, leaving at least one-half inch 
between the top of the soil and the edge of the box for 
watering. Smaller plants may be set about the edges. 
Nasturtium or Sweet Alyssum can be planted, or cuttings 


FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


55 


of the Tradescantia set out there. If the plants are taken 
from the ground they are prepared the same as for potting. 

POTTING PLANTS. 

Potting Plants from the Soil. Take the plant 
up carefully leaving a ball of earth about the roots; 
crumble this away until it will easily enter the pot, place 
a few pieces of broken pot in the bottom for drainage and 
fill it about one-third full of soil; set the plant in the 
center holding it so the top of the ball of earth is about 
one inch below the top of the pot; fill in fine soil evenly on 
all sides and press it down with the fingers firmly. The 
pots should be clean inside and should be wet before using. 
Water thoroughly and place in partial shade for a few 
days. Do not give too much water at the root until the 
plants start to grow. 

To Re-Pot, the plant is removed from the pot by in¬ 
verting it and rapping the rim of the pot lightly upon the 
edge of the bench. Crumble a little earth from the upper 
edge, remove the drainage and crumble away the lower 
edge slightly. Put in enough soil over the drainage to 
bring the ball of earth about one inch below the top of the 
pot, place the plant in the center of the pot and fill soil 
around the ball of earth pressing firmly about the edges. 
Fill the pot to about three-fourths of an inch below the 
top, press firmly and rap slightly on the bench to settle the 
soil; water and place in partial shade for a day or two. In 
re-potting, generally use pots one inch larger than those 
from which the plant came. Over-potting is as serious as 
under-potting. To pot cuttings or seedling plants take one 
part of sand, one part of soil and one part of manure and 
pot the same as other plants, filling the pots to within one- 
half inch of the top. 

propagation. 

The window garden is the teacher’s greenhouse and 
in it may be propagated all the early plants for the school 
garden. Many farmers’ wives have no other place to start 
their early vegetable and flower plants. 


56 


HINTS AND HELPS 


North windows in warm rooms for 
germinating seed and starting cuttings. 
For starting seed use one part soil and 
two parts sand, or just the soil if it is 
light. For taking cuttings, select the 
younger growth of the plants where the 
shoots are pretty well matured so that 
they are not too soft. The tops of 
shoots generally make the best cuttings. 
Cut them two or three inches long, trim 
off the large side leaves; they should 
then be inserted in clean, sharp sand 
at least half their length and wet thoroughly. A deep 
plate or shallow dish containing about two inches of sand 
can be used. This can be placed on a radiator or on the 
back of the stove at night. They should be kept moist, 
not allowed to dry up, nor should they be overwatered. 
Bottom heat stimulates root development. 

BULBS. 

Nearly all our common bulbs can be made to bloom 
successfully in the window garden, although a cool room 
will give the best results. The bulb should be potted in 
the Fall and the pots and boxes containing them should 
be left out of doors or in a cellar where the temperature is 
low. They can be brought into the window garden suc¬ 
cessively and thus obtain a succession of bloom. In pot¬ 
ting bulbs, give plenty of drainage and be sure that the 
soil is not too firm directly under them; otherwise the roots 
will throw the bulb above the surface of the soil. Most 
bulbs should be just covered with earth which is pressed 
firmly around the sides of the bulb. They should not be 
watered until growth commences. When about to bloom 
they will require considerable water. The commonest 
bulbs that do well are: Crocus; Daffodils; Freesias; Hya¬ 
cinth; Oxalis; Lily of the Valley; and Tulips. Sometimes 
a window box can be made up entirely of bulb stock, and 


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FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


57 


while it is in bloom it is very effective. A few bulbs in a 
window box with other plants, if they are judiciously ar¬ 
ranged, will add to it. 

CARE OF THE PEANTS. 

Water is the most essential element of plant food, and 
water and air are two things that every plant requires, yet 
there are no set rules that can be given when these things 
should be applied. Generally speaking, however, a plant 
should only be watered when it is dry and should then be 
watered sufficiently to wet it thoroughly. Sometimes it is 
necessary to water plants two or three times a day in sunny 
weather, and again, in cloudy weather, once a week may 
be often enough. Plants should receive good air. It is 
well to open a window for a few moments every bright 
snnny day, even in winter. Dust frequently clogs the 
pores. For this reason it is best to sprinkle the foliage of 
plants by taking them to the kitchen sink or to the bath¬ 
tub at least once or twice a week. If this is not practicable, 
dusting with a duster or washing coriaceous leaves with a 
sponge is advisable. Where the plants can be properly 
sprayed, they are not likely to be troubled very much with 
insects. In case a single plant is covered with green fly, 
place a paper bag over it and have some friend who 
smokes, puff the cigar smoke into the bag. A few times 
will remedy this trouble. Scale insects, if they once get 
hold, can only be removed by washing off with a stiff 
brush, or, if near a florist, have him give it the Hydro 
Cyanic Acid Gas treatment. Pyrethrum or tobacco dust 
is also valuable but is generally too objectionable to have 
in a living room. The best preventative is to always keep 
the plants in perfect health and growing. The pots or 
window boxes should be turned frequently so as to have 
the plants develop symmetrically. 

In closing I will only say that it is the loving attention 
to the little requirements of the plants that is the secret of 
the greatest success with the window garden. Many of 
those requirements can only be learned through coming 



Seedlings for the Garden. 



A Window Box. Boxes in the Window Garden 




























FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 


59 


into contact with the plants themselves. There are prin¬ 
ciples, but in window gardening there are hardly two en¬ 
vironments that are exactly alike. If you study plants 
and fulfill their wants, they will nearly always entirely 
fulfill your wishes in cheering and beautifying your school 
room or home. 




CHAPTER XI. 

HOW TO beautify the home grounds. 


E VERYONE wants to live in a beautiful home, but few 
understand how to make the surroundings attractive 
with very little expense. 

The object in planting shrubs and flowers is to bring 
out by a living frame of shrubbery, the central feature of 
the picture, the home. 

In order to get the desired effect in planting, three 
simple rules of landscape gardening must be followed: — 

(a) Avoid straight lines and sharp angles. 

( b ) Keep open centers. 

( c ) Plant shrubbery in masses. 

Annual and herbaceous plants alone furnish a frame 
for the picture for only two or three months a year and 
have to be replanted often, while shrubs are permanent, 
and in the end cheaper. 

In the following pages the writer endeavors to show 
how persons unfamiliar with the subject may at little cost 
make their homes picturesque and help to make the town 
or city a City Beautiful. Cleaning back yards means not 
only a more attractive communitjq but a more healthy 
one. Cleaning a single yard and making it into a good 
lawn or garden, especially if it be in a community where 
the homes are not well kept, will do much to change the 
entire neighborhood, not only from an aesthetic, but from 
a moral and sanitary standpoint as well. As disease and 
crime breed largely in filth and darkness, healthy, law- 
abiding citizens develop amid well-kept homes. 

Small beginnings even in the poorly kept homes in a 
city, in time transform barren yards of sand and weeds 
into grassy lawns brightened with foliage and flowers. 
The expense of carrying out the plans here suggested is 
within the means of the day laborer. Owners of large 

60 


CITY BEAUTIFUL 


6 I 



Before 



A little effort transforms a barron place into 
a beautiful home. 

estates usually secure landscape artists to plan the 
grounds, and have gardeners who understand how to 
plant them. No attempt is made to give advice to land¬ 
scape artists or professional gardeners. It is hoped that 
those unlearned in the art of home decoration, may find in 
these pages, inspiration and help to make their homes 
attractive that each may do his share towards making a 
City Beautiful. 















62 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


GRADING. 

Befoie any planting is done the grounds should be 
properly graded. After the rough work is finished, good 
results are obtained in the following manner. Provide 
plenty of stakes and a strong linen cord. Drive a stake in 
each front corner so that the top of each stake is just six 
inches above the proposed grade at that point. Stretch 
the cord across the tops of the grade stakes. A cheap, 
heavy cord will sag or be blown by the wind, while a 
light, strong, linen cord may be drawn so it will not sag. 
Bring the grade to the desired height about the under¬ 
pinning of the buildings. Allow for settle about two 
inches. Roll down. Drive stakes every ten feet, 
around the buildings. Cut a notch in them six inches 
above the finished grade. Drive stakes every ten feet 
along the front line, cutting a notch at the height of the 
line. Stretch a cord from a stake near the building to the 
one opposite it on the street line. Provide every work¬ 
man with a stick six inches in length. With a rake, level 
the lawn so that the soil is just six inches below the line 
as shown by the measuring sticks. Rake off the high 
places and fill up the hollows. Move the line from one set 
of stakes to another until the grading is complete. Roll 
the lawn. This usually shows low places, places which 
may have been graded well but the soil was soft or filled 
beneath and settled more. Rake down high places to fill 
low places and roll again. The lines may be put on 
again to verify the grade. For a perfect lawn continue 
rolling and filling up the depressions until perfectly 
smooth. Then rake it lightly and sow lawn grass seed 
thickly broadcast over the surface. In localities where 
the soil is light or sandy and where seasons may be dry 
and the sun very hot causing the lawn to burn, better 
results may be had by sowing the seed with a seed drill, 
putting the seed three to five inches deep. Good blue 
grass lawns may be had in the South by deep seeding. 
Lawns seeded in this way in good soil do not burn in 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL, 


63 


summer. The lawn should now be thoroughly rolled. 
The best seeding time is before the first of June, or in 
August, in Northern states. In the South, the seed should 
be sown one to two months earlier in spring and later in 
fall. If the weather is dry it may be necessary to keep the 
lawn watered. This should be done with great care to 
prevent washing. A good lawn grass seed may be bought, 
or mix two lbs. recleaned red top, two lbs. Kentucky Blue 
grass, two lbs. Bent grass, and 4 lbs. white clover seed. 
If no clover is wanted in the lawn, omit it. 

FERTILIZING. 

When grading a lawn, thoroughly fertilize by a coating 
of stable manure about three inches below the surface. 
This may be two inches thick. The top layer should be good 
loam. Stable manure not only furnishes plant food but 
changes the mechanical condition so the lawn will seldom 
need water when the grass is well started. In preparing 
the lawn, before the final grading is done, observe the 
rules for soil tillage in Chapter III. 

HOW TO MAKE THE LAYOUT. 

As most of us have to deal with the planting of places 
on which a house already is erected, the greater part of 
this chapter will be devoted to directions and suggestions 
for such plantings. Many of the suggestions will apply 



Transforming the appearance of the unsightly fence 






6 4 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


equally well in selecting and planning a building site. 
Always remember the three simple rules for landscape 
planting. If shrubs are already scattered over the lawn 
(spotty planting) they should be carefully replanted in 
masses according to the plan. This work should be done 
toward the close or at the beginning of the dormant period. 
This would mean that the planting should be done between 
March 15 and May 1st, or during the month of October, in 
a latitude of Boston. There is a difference of about six 
days for every 100 miles north or south. Before planting 
anything a plan of the grounds should be made on paper 
to a scale, i. e. % or }£ inch on paper should equal one 
foot of the land. A plan is easily made by using paper 
ruled both ways and allowing a foot of land for each line. 
First put a stake at each corner, then put a string across 
the front and measure the distance under the line. For 
this a yard stick or rule will do, but much care must be 
taken that the measure is always under the line. If a 100- 
foot tape is used a string is unnecessary. Measure all 
sides the same as the front. Thus, if the lot measured 
50 feet front by 100 feet deep, and was rectangular, the 
plan would be 12% inches by 25 inches on a scale of % inch 
to the foot. Measure in a straight line from each front 
corner of the house to the front line of the lot and to the 
side line nearest it. Make dots on the plan already drawn 
and locate the house corners. Connect the dots with a 
line; measure for the rear corners of the house in the same 
manner and for all projections. Connect the points until 
a complete ground plan is made of both the house and the 
lot. In the same manner locate any existing shrubs or 
trees that are to remain. All shrubbery as well as herba¬ 
ceous plants should be planted in spaded borders. Never 
put shrubbery in pot-holes in the lawn. Plant out the 
underpinning of the house and around the boundary lines 
to make the home a perfect picture with the house its 
central feature set in a living frame work of shrubbery. 
Where the grounds are large enough, groups of shrubbery 
planted at the corners of both the lot and building with a 



Before 


















66 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 



Masses of shrubbery connected by thinner plantings 
with artistic curves 

continuous line of shrubbery connecting masses with artis¬ 
tic curves give a pictorial effect. Where the house and 
lot is small, plant groups of shrubs in the corners and con¬ 
nect with shrubs planted nearly in a straight line. This 
may be a formal or a broken or informal hedge. For the nar¬ 
row hedge, plant Japanese Barberry (Berberis Thunbergi), 
Privet(Ligustrum Iobota or L. ovalifolium) or box(Buxus), 
[see Chapter XII for what to plant.] Where space permits 
the broken, flowering hedge made up of shrubs that will 
give a continuous bloom the entire season is very effective. 
In selecting shrubs and locating them on the plan put 
large growing shrubs and those with large showy flowers, 
like the Hydrangea well in the background. Plants with 
bright red flowers and all strong colors should be placed 
in the background or the passerj will see only the bright 
flowers which will detract from the central feature, the 
home, but if properly placed a harmonious picture is made. 
Small and delicate flowers|[are]never seen if placed behind 






and city beautiful 


67 


showy ones while their beauty is brought out to its fullest 
extent in front of them. Indicate on the plan by a circle 
( O ) or in some other manner the place where the shrubs 
should be set; put a number in the circle and the same 
number in the margin of the plan with the name of the 
shrub after it. Do not select shrubs wholly from nursery 
catalogue descriptions. hook over your neighbor’s 
shrubs, those in the parks, and those growing wild along 
the highways. As kinds that will look well about the 
home are found, indicate them on the plan. Plants may 
be grown from cuttings or layers and the home planted 
without a money expense, [see Chapter XIII.] This will 
take several years but as good results may be had. Most 
shrubs planted in groups of the same kind may be set as 
far apart as they naturally grow high. For quick effects, 



Spotty planting 






















68 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


however, they are often set closer and thinned as they crowd. 
Mixed shrubs of two or three harmonious kinds may be 
planted closer than groups of the same kind. 

If the plan is made in winter, then, when the pur¬ 
chased or collected shrubs arrive they may at once be set 
in their proper places. With no plan, the tendency is to 
set out each shrub individually, as secured. This pro¬ 
duces a spotty effect, helter skelter planting, which, while 
each shrub may be beautiful in itself, leaves the whole 
effect extremely unsatisfactory. 

HARMONY. 

It is important that shrubs be used which harmonize 
with each other and their surroundings. Tall shrubs 



A vine-covered porch with well massed plantings 






AND CITY BEAUTIFUL, 


69 


should be used at the back; low ones in front; flexible ones 
each side of the basement windows through which coal or 
wood must pass. Group flowering shrubs that harmonize. 
Consider both the bloom and foliage of any plant in set¬ 
ting it. Never use plants with bright red or large, showy 
flowers in front of the house, but rather to one side and 
well back, bringing those of more delicate colors to the 
front. This show’s up all to a better advantage, and 
brings out the home as the central feature. Climbing vines 
may be planted to advantage on porches and fences. 
Often two or three kinds are preferable to a single variety, 
but do not mix too many kinds. Plants that die to the 
ground each fall and annual flowering plants add to the 
shrubbery border, especially when planted in front of the 
shrubbery. 

CONDITION. 

The attractiveness of any home depends much upon 
the condition in which it is kept. Shrubs and plants 
should always be in well tilled borders, never in pot holes 
in the sod. The edges should be well trimmed and the 
lawn well weeded and often mown. The appearance of 
many otherwise well-kept places is spoiled by the weedy 
condition of the gutters. Everyone who does anything 
makes mistakes, but when a shrub is found to be out of 
place change it the following autumn or spring. The 
plan should be a constant study until it is complete. The 
lawn is the outdoor parlor. Artistic taste, there developed, 
is soon shown inside the home. Gardening is contageous. 
The example of the well-kept home influences the neigh¬ 
borhood. The work of one man beautifying his home 
will often inspire persons living near to improve their 
surroundings, and they in turn inspire others until the 
whole community takes on a neater appearance, and the 
first move is made toward making a beautiful town or 
city and a much healthier one. 


CHAPTER XII. 

WHAT TO PLANT. 


T HIS chapter should be carefully read in connection 
with the preceding one. After the general layout 
is planned, the natural question is, “What shall we 
plant?” It is not necessary nor wise to answer this ques¬ 
tion by any set lists. Many shrubs do equally well under 
the same conditions. Select those you most admire. The 
following lists are by no means complete. They com¬ 
prise shrubs that are perfectly hardy and will help sug¬ 
gest plants to select. Remember that the food and care of 
a plant is as important as the exposure. Often sun lov¬ 


ing plants will do fairly well 
care (good soil well fertilized 

tall plants—6 

FOR SHADE OR NORTH SIDES 

Common Barberry 
Berberis vulgaris 
Purple Leaf Barberry 
Berberis var. purpurea 
Azalias 

Nudiflora and viscosa 
(Peaty Soil preferred, no lime) 
Judas Tree or Redbud 
Cercis Canadensis 
Sweet Pepper Bush 
Clethra Alnifolia 
Red Twigged Dogwood 
Cornus Stolonifera 
Blue Dogwood 

Cornus alternifolia 
Flowering Dogwood 
Cornus Florida 


in shade if they have good 
and tilled). 

feet and higher 

FOR OTHER EXPOSURES 

Common Barberry 
Berberis vulgaris 
Purple Leaf Barberry 
Berberis var. purpurea 
Siberian Pea 

Caragana aborescens 
Button Bush 

Cephalanthus occidentalis 
Red Bud 

Cercis Canadensis 
White Fringe 

Chionanthus Yirginica 
Sweet Pepper Bush 
Clethra Alnifolia 

Red Twigged Dogwood 
Cornus Stolonifera 


70 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


71 


FOR SHADE OR NORTH SIDES 

Cornelian Cherry 
Cornus Mas 

Yellow Twigged Dogwood 
Cornus Stolonifera lutea 
Hazel Nuts 

Corylus avellana 
Purple leafed Hazel 
Cornus var. purpurea 
Hawthorns (partial shade 
and sun) 

Crataegus 
Golden Bell 
Forsythia 

Japanese Witch Hazel 
Hamamelis Japonica 
American Witch Hazel 
Winterberry 

Ilex Verticillata 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Lonicera 
Mock Orange 

Philadelphus Coronarius 
Nine Bark 

Spiraea Opulifolia 
Golden Nine Bark 

Spiraea Opulifolia var. 
Aurea 

Bridal Wreath 

Spiraea Prunifolia 
Snowballs 
Vibutnum 
Chaste Shrub 

Vitex Agnus Castus 
Weigelia 
Diervilla 


FOR OTHER EXPOSURES 

Blue Dogwood 

Cornus alternifolia 
Cornelian Cherry 
Cornus Mas. 

Hazel Nuts 

Corylus avellana 
Rose Box 

Coloneaster Simonsi 
Pearl Bush 

Exochorda grandiflora 
Golden Bell 
Forsythia 

Althaea or Rose of Sharon 
Hibiscus Syreacus 
Witch Hazel 
Hamamelis 
Winterberry 

Ilex Verticillata 
Bush Honeysuckle 
Eonicera 
Mock Orange 

Philadelphus Coronarius 
Nine Bark 

Spiraea Opulifolia 
Golden Nine Bark 

Spiraea Opulifolia var. 
Aurea 

Bridal Wreath 

Spiraea Prunifolia 
Snowballs 
Viburnum 
Chaste Shrub 

Vitex Agnus Castus 
Weigelia 
Diervilla 


72 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


medium shrubs— 3 to 6 feet 


SHADE 

Japanese Barberry 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Sweet Shrub or Spicebush 
Calycanthus Laevigatus 
Japanese Red Bud 
Cercis Japonica 
Deutzia Lemonei 
Privets (all kinds) 
Ligustrum 
Globe Flower 
Kerria Japonica 
Pkiladelphus Aurea 
Purple Plum 
Prunus Pissardi 
Sweet Sumach 
Rhus aromatica 
Yellow Flowering Currant 
Ribes aureum 
Spiraea Arguta (white) 
Spiraea Bumuldi (pink) 
Spiraea Anthony Waterer 
(crimson) 

Stephanandra Flexuosa 
Snowberry 

Symphoricarpus racemo- 
sus 

Coral Berry 
S. Vulgaris 

Lilacs (Do not bloom as well 
in shade) 

Syranga 

Snowballs 

Viburnus 


SUN 

Japanese Barberry 
Berberis Thunbergii 
Sweet Shrub Spicebush 
Calycanthus Laevigatus 
Jersey Tea 

Ceanothus Americanus 
Japanese Red Bud 
Cercis Japonica 
Deutzia Scabra 
Hyrangea var. Grandiflora 
Kerrias 
Purple Plum 
Prunus Pissardi 
White Kerria 

Rhodolypos Kerrioides 
Rose Acacia 

Robinia hispida 
Roses all kinds 
Spiraea Thumbergi 
All Spraeas 
Spiraea Van Houti 
Snow Berry 

Sympliore corpus racemo- 
sus 

Coral Berry 
S. vulgaris 
Lilacs 
Syranga 
Snowballs 
Viburnus 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


73 


low shades —Less than 3 feet 


SHADE 


SUN 


Japanese Barberries 
Berberis Thunbergii 


Box 

Buxus 


Japanese Barberries 
Box 

Deutzia Gracilis 
St. John’s Wort 


Hypericum Aureum 
Winterberry 


St. John’s Wort 


Hypericum aureum 
Winterberry 


Ilex Verticullata 
Privets (all kinds) 


Ilex Vertieullata 
Privets (all kind) 
Cinquefoil 


Philadelphus 


Trimmed any height 


Potentilla fruticosa 
Viburnum Nannis. 


Var Nannis 
Cinquefoil 

Potentilla fruticosa 
Liburnum var. Nannis 

For tall screens or green wall backgrounds both sun 
and shade : Lombardy Poplar (Populus fastigiata), Nor¬ 
way Spruce (Picea excelsa). Japanese Cedar (Retinis- 
pora Plumosa), Arbor Vitae (Thuya occidentalis), Hem¬ 
lock Spruce (Tsuga Canadensis.) 


VINES 


Self Clinging Vines : 

Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchi) 

English Ivy (evergreen, Hedera helix. Good only 
for north sides, north of New York, and where the 
atmosphere is moist. 

Euonymus radicans (evergreen, small) 

Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis quinquefolia) 

Vines Requiring a Treelis for Climbing or Twining : 
Trumpet Vine (Tecoma radicans) 

Actinida arguta 

Bitter Sweet (Celastrus scandens) 

Matrimony Vine (Lycium Barbareum) 


74 


HOW TO MARK HOME 


Climbing Hydrangea 

Clematis 

Evergreen Honeysuckle (Eonicera brachypoda) 

Golden Leaved Honeysuckle, var. aurea. 

Wistaria 

Sweet Scented Grape (Vitis riparia) 

Akebia quinata 

Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia sipho) 

Crimson Rambler 

Dorothy Perkins or Pink Rambler 

Baltimore Belle Pale blush Rose 

HARDY PLANTS THAT DIE TO THE GROUND EACH YEAR : 

Among the many kinds of tall ones are : Plume 
Poppy, Aster, Boltonia, Larkspur, Herbaceous spiraeas, 
Hibiscus or Mallow, Hollyhock, Foxglove, Hardy Sun¬ 
flowers. 

Medium and low :—Peony, Sweet William, Bleeding 
Heart, Baby’s Breath, Iris, Phlox, Grass Pink, Forget-Me- 
Not, Colombine, Anemone, Chrysanthemums, and all 
bulbs. 

This is by no means a complete list, but plants and 
shrubs here mentioned] are perfectly hardy in nearly all 
parts of the United States, and will respond favorabty to 
good treatment. They are listed to suggest what to plant. 
Full descriptions may be had in any Nursery Catalogue, 
or in Cyclopedias, found in the library. 


CHAPTER XIII. 


CAKE OF TREES AND SHRUBS 

/CONTRARY to the general idea, trees and shrubs, 
when once set in place, respond to intelligent care. 
While they may live and grow without it, tillage is essen¬ 
tial to the best results. This subject will be briefly treated 
under the headings, Propagation, Transplanting, Prun¬ 
ing, and Care. 


PROPAGATION 

There are many ways of propagating plants. The 
commonest are by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting. 
Annual plants are propagated almost wholly by seeds. 
Trees and shrubs may be propagated in the same way. 
The seeds may be planted in the autumn from one to two 
inches apart in rows in any well prepared soil. A sandy 
loam containing much humus is the best. Some seeds do 
not germinate the first year. The young seedings must 
be kept weeded and the soil well tilled. Reproduction by 
means of cuttings is a quicker method for many kinds of 
shrubs, although but few trees readily reproduce in this 
way in our northern climate. 

CUTTINGS 

Soft cuttings of shrubs are best made from new growth 
between first of July and middle of August. Take the ends 
of twigs about four inches long. Make a clean cut on the 
lower end with a clean, sharp knife. Trim off the side 
leaves and if the top ones are large cut off the upper half. 
Fill a gardener’s “flat” or any box about four inches deep, 
with an inch of cinders or small brickbats for drainage 
and then fill the box with clean, sharp mason’s sand. 
Press the sand down and wet it. Set the cuttings in rows 
making the opening with a knife or stick. Put them two 
to three inches deep, and as thick as they will stand. The 

75 



76 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


cut on the twig should be made just beneath a node (where 
the leaves were). Place the box in a hot-bed or cold 
frame and cover with a lath or cotton shutter. In the 
absence of a hot-bed put in the shade of a tree. Do not 
allow it to dry up. In about six weeks some of the cut¬ 
tings should have rooted and may be set two or three inches 
apart in rows in the garden in the well prepared soil. The 
best time to transplant it is on a rainy day or after a rain 
when the soil is moist. Some shrubs will be ready to set 
permanently in one year; others will require two or three 
years. 

Hard wood cuttings are taken in the fall, winter, or 
early spring. Often the branches pruned are used for 
these cuttings. They are made six or eight inches long 
and may be put directly into the soil if it is ready in fall 
or spring. If cuttings are made in winter, store them lay¬ 
ing them flat in boxes of sphagmun moss, or sand until 
spring. They are set in rows, using either a dibber or 
spade. Only one bud should be left above the ground and 
at least two should be below the surface. The soil should 
be pressed firmly about the cuttings. 

LAYERING 

Layering is a very simple and natural method of re¬ 
producing shrubs. It consists of laying the lower branches 
down and pinning them down wdth earth. They soon 
root. The branch is then cut off and an independent plant 
established. This may be large enough to set in its per¬ 
manent place when first transplanted the following spring. 

GRAFTING 

Propagation by grafting is practiced to produce 
quicker results than other methods of reproduction. Graft¬ 
ing is the art of placing a portion of one plant upon an¬ 
other related plant in such a manner that the growing 
tissues of each coincide and union takes place. The plant 
grafted is the stock. The part grafted into the stock is 
called the scion. Grafting is practiced on many trees that 
do not come true from seed, such as apples, pears, etc. 



AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


77 


fruit borne on grafted trees is the same variety as 
that from which the scion is taken.) Cleft grafting is 
often practiced to obtain results from seedlings in the 
shortest possible time. It is also used to change the fruit 
upon any tree to a more desirable variety. It is not as 
difficult to graft as many believe. A careful boy of ten 
years often has as good results as an experienced gardener. 

ROOT GRAFTING 

Root grafting, as the name implies, is the placing of 
a scion of the desired variety upon the roots of some other. 
Apple or pear seedlings one or two years old furnish good 
stocks. Fruit trees and many varieties of ornamental 
trees, shrubs and roses are root grafted. The scions can 
often be gathered. They should be the short sprouts of 
the previous year’s growth. They are best selected from 
thrifty trees on or near the ends of fully exposed branches. 
In selecting scions avoid long sap-sprouts with long spaces 
between the buds or nodes. They may be gathered at any 
time when not frozen, after the leaves drop until the buds 
swell in the spring. If not used immediately, they should 
be kept covered with damp moss in a cool moist place to 
keep them fresh and plump. Different varieties should 
always be marked. The stocks or roots may be stored in 
the same manner and used at any time in winter. A 
common shoe knife which may be purchased for ten or 
fifteen cents makes an excellent knife for root grafting 
when kept sharp. The stock and scion must be kept in 
place until they unite. For this purpose grafting cloth 
is perhaps the best. It is easily made as follows : 

For grafting cloth melt together over a slow fire four 
parts of unbleached resin and one part of beef tallow or raw 
linseed oil. Spread this evenly over cotton cloth with a 
brush or stick. The cloth should be tacked over a board 
or box and kept warm so the mixture will spread evenly. 
When cool roll and tie up in a waxed or oiled paper. Keep 
in a cool moist place until needed. When used, it should 
be cut in strips about one-fourth inch wide. There are 


78 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


several simple methods of root grafting; three, whip 
grafting, tongue grafting, and saddle grafting, will be ex¬ 
plained. In each case it is necessary to get the growing 
tissues (cambium layers) to coincide. If they do not, they 
will fail to unite. This growing tissue, or cambium layer 
is just inside the inner bark. Before grafting, the tops of 
the seedlings should be removed as the roots only are to 
be used. Thoroughly wash the roots (this is very essen¬ 
tial in order to keep the knife sharp). Cut them into 
pieces five or six inches long. Kach piece more than one- 
eighth inch thick will make a root graft. When the upper 
or distal end of the scion has been cut, the cut surface 
should be covered by grafting wax. 

WHIP GRAFTING 

For plain whip grafting, make long slanting cuts on 
the upper end of the root and the lower end of the scion so 


1 1 



3 



PLAIN WHIP-GRAFTING 









AND CITY BEAUTIFUL, 


79 


that they just match each other. Place them so the cam¬ 
bium layer of the stock and scion coincide and bind firmly 
with grafting cloth cut in strips about one-fourth inch 
wide. Begin winding well below the union and continue 
spirally up over it. The scions should not be over four 
inches long. This method is used on brittle woods as 
raspberries and blackberries, as well as on apple and pear 
seedlings. 


TONGUE GRAFTING 


Make a clean, long, slanting cut on the upper end of 
the stock. Select a scion about the same size and make a 
similar cut on the low*er end of it. Both cuts should be 
clean, smooth and match each other. Make a little tongue 
in each by cutting out a small wedge-shaped chip as shown 
in the cut. Press stock and scion firmly together so that 
the tongues dovetail. Be sure the inner bark of stock and 


1 


l 


3 



TONGUE-GRAFTING 
















8o 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


scion coincide. If they do not fit exactly, take them apart 
and try until they do. If scion is smaller than the stock 
it must be carried to one side. Bind firmly with warm 
grafting cloth one-fourth inch wide, beginning well be¬ 
low the union, winding spirally until above the cut. This 
method is used with tough wooded plants as the apple, 
the rose, etc. As the tongues hold stock and scion to¬ 
gether firmly, it is a better method than plain whip graft¬ 
ing. 

SADDLE GRAFTING 

Make a clean slanting cut on each side of the upper 
end of the root, and a corresponding V-shaped cut on the 


1 2 

— .distal (end) 


-Scion 


---stccK 



,proxima I (end) 
1 "Saddle grajT 



SADDLE GRAFTING 

scion. When these fit exactly, bind them together with 
grafting cloth. Never allow the hands to touch the cut 
surfaces. 











AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


81 


TO plant root grafts 


Prepare the soil as for any crop by spading or plow¬ 
ing and harrowing thoroughly. Stretch a line where the 
first row is desired. Put the spade down the full length 
of the blade under the line. Move it back and forth to 
increase the opening. Remove the spade and press the 
root graft into the ground until the top is only an inch 
above the surface. Press the soil firmly about it with the 
heel. Continue to place root grafts under the line every 
four to six inches. The graft should be inserted into the 
soil well below the union to encourage roots in the scion 
and to prevent the stock from sending up “suckers.” In 
a small garden root grafts may be planted in rows two 
feet apart, but if there is space enough to cultivate with a 
horse, the rows should be three to four feet apart. Hard 
wood cuttings should be planted in the same manner. 


cleft grafting 


Cleft grafting is practiced on the tops of trees which 
are more or less matured. Wild apple trees of good size 
are often grafted so they will produce desirable fruit. It 
should be practiced on branches not over two inches in 
diameter. It is best to graft only one-third or one-half of 
a tree in a single season, so as to have enough top to 
furnish plenty of leaves. A saw, a pruning hook, a 
knife and a hammer are necessary as well as scions and 
grafting wax. With a clean, sharp saw, remove the end 



Split the stub in the center 











82 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


of the branch to be grafted at a point where the stub will 
not be over two inches in diameter. Much care should be 
taken to prevent the bark splitting down on the under side 
when the branch is cut off. It is often best to make part 
of the cut from underneath. Place the grafting hook so 
the chisel part is over the center of the cut and drive it 
down with the hammer splitting the stub into two parts 
through the center. Remove the tool and drive the wedge 
part into the end of the split stub so as to hold the edges 



a A scion but. b Scions inserted; stub ready for wax 


open. Select a scion and make a double wedge shaped 
cut on the lower end of it, making it wedge shaped length¬ 
wise so as to fit into the cleft, and wedge shaped horizon¬ 
tally so the inside of the scion inserted in the cleft is al¬ 
most cut away while the outside, which comes in contact 
with the cambium layer of the stub, forms an arc of the 
original circle of the twig. When the stub is more than 
one inch in diameter, place a scion in each edge of the 
cleft so the inner bark of the scion and of the stock coin¬ 
cide. Remove the grafting hook. When the stub springs 
back, it will hold the scions firmly in place. All exposed 





































AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


83 


surfaces should be well covered with grafting wax to pre¬ 
vent evaporation. Let the wax cover the ruptured bark 
below where the scion is inserted as well as the top of the 
cut. The second season, one of the branches should be 
removed if both scions grow. When the stub is one inch 
or less across, but one scion should be inserted. If both 
were allowed to grow, a fork would be formed which would 
weaken the tree. The scions should be wrapped in moist 
cloths to prevent them from drying out. Cleft grafting is 
successfully done only in the spring, when buds are swell¬ 
ing. It is most successful on bright, warm days, free from 
cold or drying winds. For transplanting see Chapter VI. 

PRUNING. 

Pruning is often the most neglected part of the work 
about the home. It is very simple if one will only take 
some pains to learn how to prune correctly. Some butcher 
their trees and shrubs while others allow them to grow 
entirely to brush. When well done, pruning is the act of 
removing a part of the plant that the remainder may bet¬ 
ter serve our purpose. It is practiced for four results, 
each requiring a slightly different method. They are: 1, 
To change the form—Formative pruning. 2, To stimulate 
development, growth, fruit, flowers, etc.—Stimulative 
pruning. 3, To prevent some impending evil as a disease, 
dead or dying members—Protective pruning. 4, To 
hasten or retard maturity—Maturative pruning. The 
best time to prune is directly after blooming or toward the 
end of the dormant period, March in New England; Janu¬ 
ary and February, south; are good months. It is better 
not to have large cut surfaces exposed to drying winter 
winds. They should be painted or covered with grafting 
wax. The worst time to prune is when the wounds bleed 
in spring or in the fall. Early flowering shrubs should 
be pruned after blooming. 

TREES 

Dead or dying branches should be removed at any 
time. Always cut back to living wood. Twining or cross- 


8 4 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 



Hollow tree prepared for Cement. Filling 
Connecting Chain above protecting against splitting 


ing branches should be removed. The tops of fruit trees 
should be kept open enough to allow fruit to color well. 
When necessary to cut a branch from a tree, the cut should 
be made as near the trunk as possible. A part of the cut 
should be made from the underside to prevent the bark 
splitting down. If cut in this way the wound quickly 
heals. If a “stub” is left the wound will not heal and 
decay begins which soon extends into the trunk. A young 






AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


§5 


tree may be trained as it should grow and will need little 
pruning when old. All suckers whether from the branches 
or roots should be removed. Prune regularly and systema¬ 
tically every year. Trees not properly pruned when set 
and those that have been neglected require the most care¬ 
ful treatment and care. Where the trunk is divided, 
treatment is required not only to preserve the tree, but to 
protect life and property. Any severe storm is likely to 
break down one side injuring everything that comes in its 
way. One tree in breaking may destroy enough property 
to pay for fixing a dozen trees. Such trees may be made 
safe by putting a steal bolt through the trunk just below 
where they separate and by connecting two bolts ten to fif¬ 
teen feet above with a steel chain. The chain allows for 
the natural movement of the tree. The heads of the bolts 
should be large and counter-sunk even with the inner bark, 
so the wound will heal in the shortest possible time. The 
openings with tar and oakum should be made water tight 
and the place where the trunk divides should be filled with 
tarred oakum to prevent water from entering and causing 
decay. Hollow trees are most irequently caused by improper 
pruning. When the tree is hollow, it should be treated as 
a dentist treats a hollow tooth. Clean out all the decay, 
put on a coat of tar and fill it with cement. The lives of 
many trees may be saved for years by this treatment. The 
cement should be mixed thin enough to fill all holes and 
may be made of one part cement and two parts sand. 
Large stones may be used to help fill up the cavities. 

For Ornamental Shrubs, prune to give the best 
effect. If new growths are wanted for twig effects in win¬ 
ter as the red and yellow stemed willow, cut everything 
back near the ground in March. For flowering shrubs 
prune to preserve the best natural or desired shapes and a 
medium growth. Long sap growths rarely produce 
flowers or fruit. 

For Hybrid Roses, cut back Hardy Hybrid roses 
early in the spring, severely, to about one foot from the 
ground. Leave but few buds to stimulate as much new 


86 


IIOW TO MAKE HOME 


growth as possible, as this produces the flowers. Watch 
for native stock canes from the ground that often appear 
where budded or grafted stock is used. Remove all of 
them or they will ruin the rose bush. After blooming cut 
back about half as much as in the spring to stimulate an¬ 
other crop of flowers. When well planted, pruned, and 
cared for, many of the roses will bloom from May until 
October. 

Grape Vines —For the best success, grape vines 
should be pruned so as to renew the canes. There are 
several methods of the renewal system. Any one or a com¬ 
bination of several may be used with success. For arbors 
prune to get as many new canes as possible each year and 
at the same time get the effect of the arbor. The simplest 
renewal system is where the vines are planted eight feet 
apart, in rows eight or ten feet apart. Posts are set in the 
row and two wires are stretched upon them. The lowest 
wire is two and one-half feet from the ground; the upper 
one is four feet from the ground. The new cane is grown 
on the lower wire. The fruiting cane is grown on the up¬ 
per wire where it gets more light and air which prevents 
disease. At the end of the season or sometime before the 
first of March, the upper cane is cut off near the lower 
wire. The lower one is now carried up to the upper wire 
where it is tied or fastened with little hooks made for the 
purpose. A stub of one or two eyes is left near the lower 
wire and from this the new cane is grown. The fruit is 
always grown from the new growth on last season’s cane. 

Raspberries and Blackberries should always be 
pruned by cutting out all canes that have fruited. They 
are best removed by a raspberry hook which is a small 
sharp hook on a handle about four feet long. 

care 

Many persons fail to realize that shrubs or trees, when 
once planted, need any care. Trees and shrubs should 
be unpacked immediately upon their arrival and if they 
can not be replanted at once, they should be “lieeled-in.” 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


§7 



Trees Heeled In 


This consists of removing them from bundles and tem¬ 
porarily covering their roots with soil, allowing the stems 
to slant away from the sun. If the plants have become 
very dry, it is advisable to lay them down and cover their 
full length with soil. Heeling-in is the best done on the 
north side of buildings. All broken or bruised roots should 
be removed, leaving a clean cut surface which quickly 
heals. The top should usually be cut back about one third. 
In poor soils, trees will make better growth if a supply of 
stable manure is mixed with the soil, put into the hole after 
the roots are covered. Manure should not come in contact 
with the roots. Large trees may be transplanted, but re¬ 
quire much care. A ball of earth should be taken up with 
them, if possible. It is better to root prune by digging a 
trench around each tree the previous year, cutting all the 
roots. This trench should be about one-sixth of the 
height of the tree from the trunk, i e., a tree 25 feet high 
would have a trench, four feet from the trunk, eight feet 
in diameter. Large trees should be set immediately after 
digging, and a stream of water should always be used to 
settle the soil about the roots. Street trees as maples and 
elms should not be set closer than 30 to 40 feet apart. 
Young trees well pruned and set, grow shapely with little 
additional care if unmolested. Crossing branches should 
be removed. If there is a tendency to become unsymetrical, 
the ends of the longest branches should be cut off. Shrubs 
should be planted in well tilled borders and trees do bet¬ 
ter when dug about and fertilized. Care should always 
be taken not to injure roots. 




Cutting all Broken Roots 





Poplar and other quick growing trees should be very severely pruned 















AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


89 


Special Care of Roses. Roses should be treated 
differently than most shrubs. While the ordinary shrub 
does best in a medium loam, roses like a heavy loam, the 
more clay the better. Hardy hybrid roses may be made 
to bloom almost continuously if the bed is well prepared 
before setting. To prepare the bed, dig out the soil for a 
depth of three feet, and fill in the bottom with bones, wood 
ashes, and a compost of cow manure. For the top, use two 
parts of pure clay to one part of fresh cow manure with a 
good sprinkling of fine bone meal; mix these thoroughly. 
If the roses are grafted stock, they should be set three or 
four inches below the buds. It is usually wise to set rose 
bushes two or three inches lower than they have been 
growing. This encourages rooting above the grafts. A 
yearly application of fine bone meal or wood ashes or both 
is beneficial. It is usually necessary to spray roses as 
soon as the buds start in spring and to continue to spray 
until after the danger of plant aphides is over. Both the 
green and white fly are veiy troublesome. Arsenic poisons 
are useless because the insect has a mouth like a mosquito, 
pierces the skin of the leaf, and sucks the vital juices from 
within. A contact poison such as kerosene emulsion, whale 
oil soap, or ivory soap should be used. This may seem 
a good deal of work, but it will pay. A rose bed thor¬ 
oughly prepared, and the roses cared for as above de¬ 
scribed, if they are of the hardy tea or hybrid varieties 
will yield bloom every month from June to October and 
will also have the rich, dark foliage of the florist’s rose. 
Of course, June roses cannot be made to bloom contin¬ 
uously, and while the care and the method of planting is 
practically the same, the result will not be continuous 
bloom; neither should they be as thoroughly pruned. 


CHAPTER XIV. 

PLANT ENEMIES AND THEIR REMEDIES. 


I N this chapter no attempt will be made to fully describe 
the enemies found in nearly every garden. For conveni¬ 
ence they will be divided into Plant Diseases and Insect 
Pests. The latter will be subdivided into sucking insects, 
biting and chewing insects, and scale insects. Each sub¬ 
ject will be briefly treated and remedies easy to apply 
given. 

plant diseases. 

Plant diseases are very similar to diseases in human 
beings, caused by the same class of vegetable growth 
called germs. In the human family we have diphtheria, 
Scarlet fever, or small-pox. In the plant family, rusts, 
mildews, and blight. The best way to prevent disease 
and insect attacks in plants is to give them plenty of 
food and air, keep them healthy and growing. It is 
easier to prevent disease than to cure it. The spores or 
germs of all diseases of plants are killed by the Bordeaux 
mixture. Plants likely to be attacked should be sprayed 
as a preventative measure. This kills the germs that fall 
on the leaf and prevents the disease starting. 

Sunshine is the best of all germicides. 

INSECT PESTS. 

There are so many kinds of insects that descriptions 
of them would fill a large book. The sucking insects are 
those that have mouth parts like the mosquito. The beak 
pierces the skin of the leaf or tender twigs and sucks out 
the chlorophyl which is not only the green coloring matter 
of the leaf but its energy as well. The white and green 
fly found on rose bushes are among the commonest in this 
class. They are commonly known as plant lice. All 
this class of pests must be killed by a contact poison 


90 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL, 


91 


something that kills the insects by coming in con¬ 
tact with their bodies. Kerosene emulsion, ivory soap 
solutions, and whale oil soap are among the remedies for 
this class of insects. The chewing insects are easily killed 





0. HBfDFMAHSC 


The Destructive Elm Deaf Beetle 


by spraying with any active poison as lead arsenate, paris 
green, helebore. It is easy to distinguish them as they 
eat up the leaves. Lava (often called worms) of many 
insects come under this class. Scale insects are really suck¬ 
ing insects. They stick so closely to the bark of twigs 
that they are often overlooked and the tree or shrub is 
sometimes nearly killed before the cause is discovered. 
Careful examination, however, and especially scraping 
the thumb nail along the bark of the twig, will indicate 
their presence. They require special treatment, usually 
winter spraying. 












92 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


spraying. 

A spray pump is very useful about the home. Any 
good bucket pump will do all the work necessary on a 
small place. Spraying to be effective should be repeatedly 
done. Fair results may be obtained by using a brush 
broom or a bundle of fine twigs. The finer the spray the 
better. Considerable force is necessary to carry the spray 
into the foliage. The mixtures given in the following 
paragraphs are effective, and easily obtained or made. 

Do not wait until the bugs have eaten up your plants, 
spray as soon as the enemies appear. 

SPRAY MIXTURES FOR PLANT DISEASES. 

The Bordeaux mixture is the most generally used of 
all. It discolors the foliage, however. All sprays should 
be applied in as fine a spray as possible. They should be 
applied as a preventative to kill the spores before the 
plants become diseased. Use i lb. blue stone or copper 
sulphate and i lb. rock lime. Dissolve the first in a 
wooden or earthern vessel containing 5 quarts of water, 
by suspending it in a bag. Slake the lime in 5 quarts of 
water. Keep these stock solutions separate until ready to 
spray. Place 4 quarts of water in a pail and add 1 pint of 
each. It is better to strain this through two thicknesses 
of bransack to prevent clogging the spray nozzle. 

The Bordeaux mixture is used to prevent rusts, mil¬ 
dews, decay and all plant diseases. Another remedy 
for rusts and mildews on roses or other plants, is to 
sift, or better, blow a thin coating of flowers-of-sulphur 
over the plants. Potassium sulphide or liver-of-sulphur 
may be applied for the same purpose. Use 1 ounce dis¬ 
solved in 2 gallons of water. It does not discolor the foliage 
but has a disagreeable odor. 

SPRAYING MIXTURES FOR INSECTS. 

For Sucking Insects. The following mixtures are 
destructive to all insects that suck the juice, as green fly, 
plant lice, etc. Kerosene Emulsion : Dissolve cake of 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


93 


ivory or any good hard soap shaved fine in one pint of 
water, remove from the fire and add one quart of kero¬ 
sene. Churn with a force pump or pour from one pail 
to another for about ten minutes when it should be thor¬ 
oughly mixed. Take one pint of this stock emulsion and 
add seven quarts of water and mix. It will mix easier if 
the water is warm. Apply this to the bushes with force 



Plant Lice 

in as fine a spray as possible. For all kinds of plant 
lice, spray two days in succession and as often as they 
reappear. 

Ivory Soap Solution. Dissolve i lb. cake in 4 gal¬ 
lons of water. Apply when luke warm. Whale oil soap 
should be applied according to the printed directions. 

Tobacco Dust. Tobacco dust and tobacco water is 
also good. The dust should be sifted or blown with a blower 
over the leaves and twigs. Individual house plants may 
be treated by placing a paper bag over the plant and hav- 




94 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


ing some friend who smokes, puff the smoke of a cigar 
into the bag. This is often the easiest treatment for house 
plants. The bag should remain for some time over the 
plant, to hold the smoke until the plant lice are killed. 
Pyrethrum powder and Bug Death are also used to destroy 
troublesome sucking insects. 

For Chewing Insects it is necessary to apply an active 
or positive poison such as Paris Green, London Purple, or 
Helebore. These may be applied either dry or in water. 
Use a tablespoonful of Helebore to a pail of water or mix 
in 2 quarts of ashes. Use a teaspoonful of Paris Green to 
a pail of water, or 2 quarts of ashes applied dry. All 
spray mixtures shouid be kept thoroughly mixed, and 
the finer spray the better. 



The Garden Toad—One of the gardener’s best friends 



























AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


95 


Scale Insects. Scale insects are killing many of 
our trees and shrubs. As a preventative it is well to spray 
in winter with a “scale-cide” or something prepared espe¬ 
cially for scale pests. Kerosene Emulsion, one part stock 
solution to ten parts water may help some. Spraying may 
be done any warm day in winter. Two or three applications 
are better than one. For the ordinary home garden the mix¬ 
tures here given will be found easy to make or obtain, 
and inexpensive to apply. A little care will bring big 
results. Never allow plants to become weakened by 
insect attacks as they are then likely to be attacked by 
disease germs. Keep them growing and the soil tilled. 
Encourage the enemies of insects as the birds and toads. 
Birds eat millions of destructive insects and a single gar¬ 
den toad has been proved to eat in one season destructive 
worms and bugs, that if left, would destroy over nineteen 
dollars worth of produce. (See Nature Leaflet, No. 28, 
State Board of Agriculture, Boston, Mass. Free.) 

DAMPING OFF FUNGUS. 

This often causes small seedling plants and cuttings 
to disappear, sometimes in a single night. A simple 
remedy usually effective is to sift clean dry sand (baked 
or sterilized sand is best) over the young plants and 
withhold water until they become rather dry. A high 
temperature and a damp soil favor damping off fungus. 

Potato Scab. 

Suspend the potatoes in sacks, in 30 gallons of 
water, to which 1 pint of Formaldehyde has been added. 
Potatoes should be sprayed 6 times with Bordeaux mix¬ 
ture. Paris Green should be added to kill the beetles 
when necessary. Use 4 lbs. lime, 4 lbs. blue stone (copper 
sulphate) and 1 lb. Paris Green to 50 gallons of water. 
Shake the lime in 5 gals, of water and dissolve the copper 
sulphate in 5 gals, of water by suspending it in a sack. 
Pour these into 40 gals, of water. Never pour the stock 
solutions together before adding water. Never use iron 


96 


HINTS AND HELPS 


or tin about the Bordeaux mixture. Treating and spray 
ing potatoes often increases the crop more than one hund 
red per cent. 


CHAPTER XV. 

*A FLOWER GARDEN COMPETITION 

Hr HE Carnegie Flower Garden Competition of North- 
* ampton, was started by the President of the Home- 
Culture Clubs, now the People’s Institute, in 1899. Be¬ 
ginning with only a score of competitors, the interest in 
the competition and its wonderful results has steadily 
grown until over one thousand homes (a fourth of the 
homes in the city) are competing for the prizes offered 
each year. 

The work has grown so that the city is divided into 
seven different districts (ward boundaries) and in order to 
distribute the prizes more evenly, each district receives 
three prizes. The amazing numerical growth of the com¬ 
petition shows the enthusiasm of the competitors and the 
general interest throughout the city. But this awakened 
interest, wonderful as it may seem, is overshadowed by the 
astonishing results accomplished. 

Many garden competitors started in the competition 
with their lawns merely grassless yards or a waste of sand 
and weeds. Now in place of these unsightly yards are 
beautiful, well kept lawns with appropriately planted 
shrubberry. This is done not only by persons who are 
well to do, but by persons working in mills, who are 
simply tenants in the places where they live. 

So silently and gradually has this work been done, 
that many fail to realize the wonderful changes that have 
taken place until other cities are visited or pictures taken 
ten years ago, and now are contrasted. One visitor in the 
city after riding for two hours through the factory section, 


*The Carnegie Flower Garden of Northampton Mass., has been carried on 
for a decade with so much success; the rules so carefully worked out, and suc¬ 
cesses obtained when the same rules and methods have been adopted else¬ 
where, that they are here given in the hope that they may prove helpful to 
others interested in beautifying homes in other communities. 



9 S 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


turned to her companion and asked, “Where do the fac¬ 
tory people live ?” 

The pictures tell the story of the changed condition 
better than words. In order to get contrasting photo¬ 
graphs, the writer, after looking entirely over the city, had 
to go to another city to get views of homes without a lawn 
or a flower or a shrub about them. 

A Flower Garden Committee of about twenty-five, 
divide the city among themselves. The latter part of winter 
and early spring they visit each home and enroll the compet¬ 
itors. One expert visits all competing gardens in the sum¬ 
mer and marks each on the layout or plan of the place; the 
harmony or its arrangements both as to color of blooms 
and size and form of trees, shrubs, and plants. Third, 
the condition or the order and neatness of everything. 
Fourth, the duration of the planting. 

Visitors advise and help the competitors all they can 
and tell them the whole place is considered the garden 
from the gutter in front to the end of the back yard. The 
lawn should be thoroughly weeded. Mow the grass often. 
In laying out the plantings, avoid straight lines and sharp 
angles. Plant all flowers you wish, but plant shrubs at 
their back to give more pleasant and lasting effects 
while the annuals are cut of season as well as when not 
in bloom. Try to plant so as to make the whole place one 
single picture of a home with the house its chief feature 
and the outside boundary line its frame. The place needs 
to be planted on all its boundaries and left open in the 
middle. Plant some small evergreens so as to have a 
twelve months’ garden instead of a three months’ garden. 

Civic gardening is contagious. As one man improves 
his place, the whole surrounding neighborhood begins to 
take on a cleaner aspect until soon there are beautifully 
kept and well planted lawns, where a few years ago nearly 
the entire street was bordered by grassless yards. The 
improvement of the property, the general civic better¬ 
ment, and the uplift in moral tone is unquestionably felt. 
Indeed, the contagion is spreading throughout the entire 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


99 


city, which is fast becoming a city of gardens and well 
kept homes. With continued efforts and the co-operation 

of all, Northampton will soon be known as the City Beau¬ 
tiful. 


RULES 

(Garden Competitors will be interested to know that 
these rules, worked out for this competition, are being 
adopted for similar competitions in other cities.) 

1. Only adult residents living within the city limits 
of Northampton, may enter this competition, although 
minors may take whatever part they choose in gardening. 

2. No person may enter the competition while en¬ 
gaged in gardening as a business. 

3. No competitor may hire assistance of any sort in 
his gardening, except in the unlimited class. 

4. Each garden must belong to the dwelling of the 
person offering it in competition, but the place may be 
either owned or rented. 

5. Each garden must comprise the entire house lot 
on which it stands. 

6. No competitor may take any prize as low as he 
has taken with the same garden in any previous season. 

7. Any garden which has taken the Capital Prize of 
the Carnegie Competition at least two years previously 
may take part in what is known as the Capital Prize Win¬ 
ners' Competition, and may take this prize as often as its 
rating stands highest except that no garden can take this 
prize two years in succession. 

8. In the rating of gardens, four merits will be 
counted as of leading value : First, the plan on which 
the garden is laid out; second, the harmony of its features 
as to form and colors; third, the general upkeep of walks, 
beds, turf and buildings and enclosures; fourth, the dura¬ 
tion of the planting. 

9. The field or competition is divided into seven 
nearly equal districts, the ward boundary lines of the city. 
In each of these districts three of the prizes may be 


IOO 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


awarded, and no two consecutive prizes in the list can be 
awarded in the same district. 

10. Capital Prize Winner’s Price, $6; capital, $15; 
second, $13; third, $10; fourth, $9.50; fifth, $9; sixth, $8.50; 
seventh, $8; eighth, $7.50; ninth,$7; tenth, $6.50; eleventh, 
$6; twelfth, $5.50; thirteenth, $5; fourteenth, $4.50; fif¬ 
teenth, $4; sixteenth, $3.75; seventeenth, $3.50; eighteenth, 
$3.25; nineteenth, $3; twentieth, $2.75; twenty-first, $2.50. 

11. A separate prize of $ 6 , and a second one of $4 
may be competed for by persons using hired help in their 
gardens, subject to these rules, except rule three. 

12. Any number of not less than seven gardens op¬ 
posite one another on the same street, or adjoining one 
another whether on the same street or not, may form a 
neighborhood garden club to compete for a first club prize 
of $1 per garden, and a second club prize of 50 cents per 
garden, payable to the regularly elected secretary of the 
club. 

13. Gardens belonging to such clubs shall have every 
right of individual contestants in the general competition, 
the same as if they did not belong to clubs. 

14. An empty lot or an empty dwelling, or the oc¬ 
cupied dwelling of no more than one family, refusing to 
join the neighborhood garden club, shall not be counted 
separating any group of neighbors seeking to form a club 
under this rule. 

15. The annual award of prizes shall be on some date 
in October, to be announced by the management of the 
People’s Institute. Seventy-five additional prizes of 
shrubs are given by a nursery man. 

All homes that the committee fail to visit to enroll, 
are visited by some one from the People’s Institute. The 
marking is done by an expert, who visits every competing 
garden and marks it on the points mentioned in rule eight. 
These are marked on a scale of 100. When visiting, he 
gives advise as to planning, planting and improving the 
grounds. 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


IOI 


A card is left at each place (whether any one is at 
home or not) stating that this competing garden officially 

inspected, date.-, signed by the official inspector. 

On the reverse side of this card are the rules for getting 

higher marks, as mentioned just before the rules in this 
chapter. 

The names of all persons whose gardens average over 
90 or the ten highest in each district are given to the pre¬ 
sident of the Institute, who in turn visits and marks these 
gardens. The highest gardens are still again visited and 
marked by some other person. The prize award is made 
a great affair when with the shrubs over 100 prizes are 
given out, including 150 shrubs and about two hundred 
dollars in monej r . Stereopticon slides of the winning gar¬ 
dens are sometimes shown. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

HOW TO FORM A CITY BEAUTIFUL LEAGUE. 

T HE progressive movement to make cities more healthy, 
by cleaning them up, villages and homes more attrac¬ 
tive by planting shrubs and flowers about them, is world 
wide. For the city officials to clean up the streets and 
make all public places attractive accomplishes but little 
compared with the co-operative effort of every one living 
in the community. To get the people to work unitedly is 
a problem. Many are willing, but they do not know how 
to start. The previous chapter shows a method that has 
worked successfully for more than half a score of years in a 
conservative New England city. Another plan to secure 
the co-operation of every organization in the city to obtain 
quick and lasting returns has been successfully established 
in many towns and cities. It is the formation of a City 
Beautiful Eeague. The influence of such an organization 
is felt from the very start because every influential body 
in the community is brought into the work. 

TO FORM A CITY BEAUTIFUL LEAGUE. 

After enthusing as many persons as possible, call a 
public meeting at which the Mayor, the City Council, the 
School Superintendent, and Board of Education, the 
Executive Officer of the Board of Trade, Chamber of Com¬ 
merce, or Commercial Club, and the president of every 
organization in the city are present. An outside speaker 
brings enthusiasm and often means a large audience, but 
is not indispensable. After the address (if any) the 
meeting should be called to order, and a temporary chair¬ 
man elected who shall preside until a permanent chairman 
is chosen. A temporary secretary or clerk should be 
elected or appointed by the Chair. The reason for calling 
the meeting is briefly explained and a general discussion 
on the advisability of organizing may take place. 


102 


AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 


103 


In order to bring the matter definitely before the 
house a motion to form a permanent organization should 
be made. If this motion passes, the Chairman should 
appoint, or the body elect a Committee on Constitution 
and By-Laws, and a Nominating Committee. The follow¬ 
ing will serve as a guide. 

CONSTITUTION. 

Article I, name. The name of this organization shall 
be known as the City Beautiful League of . 

Art. II, purpose. The purpose is three-fold: First, to 
improve the general appearance of the yards, streets, gar¬ 
dens and alleys. Second, to encourage the boys and girls to 
have gardens, to grow more flowers, and to know more of 
Nature and of the soil. Third, to inculcate in the minds 
of all our people more love for the beautiful in Nature. 

Art. Ill, membership. An)' person may become a 
member of this League by paying an annual membership 
fee of fifty cents or more, which shall be considered as 
membership for the whole family. 

Art. IV, officers. There shall be a President, a 
General Vice-President, a Secretary, a Treasurer, an 
Auditor, and Vice-Presidents, to consist of the Mayor, 
Superintendent of Schools, Secretary Commercial Club, 
and the presidents of all women’s clubs in the city. These 
officers shall constitute an Executive Committee. 

Art. V, meetings. The League shall hold meet¬ 
ings once a month throughout the year, excepting Novem¬ 
ber, December and January. An annual meeting shall be 
held in February, when an elaborate program will be 
arranged. 

Art. VI, amendments. No alteration in this Consti¬ 
tution shall be made except upon motion made in writing. 
This motion to be voted on at the following meeting, two- 
thirds of the members present must vote in favor of the 
motion for its adoption. A quorum for this purpose shall 
consist of twenty-five members. 



104 


HOW TO MAKE HOME 


By-Laws. 

Art. I. Officers shall perform the usual duties of 
their respective offices. The treasurer shall receive all 
moneys and pay all bills when properly approved by the 
Chairman of the Committee incurring the expense, and the 
President, unless a special Auditing Committee is ap¬ 
pointed by the Executive Committee. 

Art. II. The Executive Committee shall have 
power to elect Standing Committees on Membership, Enter¬ 
tainment, Finance, Auditing, and arrange for competition, 
inspection and award of prizes. One part of their work 
will be to promote attractive homes by contests offering 
prizes for the best gardens and lawns, and to formulate 
rules for carrying on these contests. 

OZ; Ji. 

"7T "TV 'Tv 

No existing organization can do the work as well as a 
new organization formed for the purpose of beautifying 
the city unless such organization already has ever)' mem¬ 
ber of the city in it. The membership fee should be so 
low as to exclude no one. Some will give large contribu¬ 
tions. 

Persons living in the poorest section of the city and 
under the worst conditions should be especially urged to 
join. Results are sure to follow. Lawns will take the 
place of grassless yards; gardens and flowers the place of 
unsightly, unsanitary and unproductive back yard dumps. 
Whole streets will be lined with well kept lawns and well 
planted homes. Coming in closer contact with the soil 
and in the open air and sunshine will make the people 
nobler, better citizens. Whole families will become 
interested in making the home the prettiest as well as the 
best place on earth. Children will be occupied in gardens 
instead of spending their time on the corners of the street. 
The city of attractive homes, well-kept streets and healthy 
citizens will rapidly become the city beautiful. 



H. D. HE MEN WAY, 

Author of “How To Make School Gardens” 
Published by Doubleday, Page & Co., N. Y. 


LECTURES ILLUSTRATED WITH BEAUTIFUL SLIDES 


How to Beautify Home Grounds 

How to Make Home and City Attractive 
Without Money 

Children’s Gardens 


Our Common Trees (How to know them) 
The Tree, How to Set and Care for it 

The Gospel of Gardens, for Sunday 
Evenings 


Weekly engagements giving School Garden Training to teachers a speciality 

Send for Large Circular—Write for Terms 


H. D. HEMENWAY 

Northampton, Mass. 






Over Sixty Years’ Experience 

In growing and disseminating Trees, Shrubs and Plants 
throughout New England. 

Varieties suitable for this climate at prices consistent 
with quality. Write for catalogue. 

J. W. ADAMS NURSERY CO. 

Springfield, Mass. 




































































































One copy del. to Cat. Div. 


mx 28 1911 


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

















































































